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In today’s video, I attempt to repair a PS1, two PS2 slim, a PS2 fat and a PS3. The second PlayStation 2 slim definitely gave me the most trouble during the repair, but I’m still happy that I managed to get it working! Feel free to drop any questions below! If you’ve had similar repair experiences, I’d love to hear from you. 😊

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Brian Dozier

Looking forward to seeing your repair skills in these units appreciate it sayaka

Giorgio Sciani

Thanks for sharing, I can’t wait to see it, I’m sure you’ve done an excellent job! 🤩👋🏻

Ry

I'll have to use this video as reference. My PS2 Slim's DVD drive isn't working. It probably also needs to be regreased. Thank you!

Shinobi0ne

Love your videos! I learn something new every time.

Sam Meek

The look on your face when that ribbon cable caused the laser to grind was priceless! XD

Sam Meek

Going back to the solder, I take it that the 200°C was leaded and the 400° unleaded? I am getting into this soldering game and having a great time with it :D

JLG33

200C is too low, even for lead solder. I usually run at around 400C for lead solder, and a little higher for lead-free. It is always useful to have replacement tips for your soldering iron, wick, flux, and the tip cleaner. Please use sufficient ventilation, the fumes are unhealthy.

Sam Meek

I have read otherwise, that lead solder has a much lower temperature and lead-free solder has a variable higher temperature and is a bit more unpredictable to work with...? I mean, Sayaka's solder joints at 200° seem to work fine, she knows what she's doing from the many, many videos I have watched 😊

Markintosh

Still watching-I liked the pop-pop-pop disappearing components!! lol. Hey, who is that figurine sitting on your shelf?

Markintosh

You fixed them ALL!! (I knew you could!) You’ve really gotten good at the delicate surgery-meaning the trace fix on the ribbon cable-very impressive! I liked how you used tape rolled over on itself to hold each end of the ribbon during continuity testing and your use of low temp solder to aid in removing old solder from components-both great ideas that I’ll use myself! Thanks for another Great video!

Dirk Crossi

lots of hairs in the PS2

Mousekillaz

I have a couple of sketchy PS2s, after seeing this video, maybe I'll try to fix them too!

Sayaka's Digital Attic

Thanks! That transition actually took me quite a while because I have to be careful not to move anything haha, the figurine is Reze from Chainsaw Man!

Sayaka's Digital Attic

Glad you liked it! That trace repair was definitely the trickiest part, but it worked out in the end :>

Markintosh

I feel your pain! I did a shot like that for a video I made and it took two hours just to LIGHT it! lol-and yes-you can’t TOUCH ANYTHING! lol. Never heard of that character-I’ll check it out!

Sayaka's Digital Attic

Hi :) I usually use 60/40 solder, so with 40% lead. It’s definitely easier to work with, but I still run my iron at around 400°C too The only time I go that low (200°C) is when I’m using low melt solder and that’s just for removing components, not for soldering them back. At something like 200°C, you risk getting cold joints or parts not properly attached. For actual soldering, it’s much safer to use regular solder at the proper temperature 🙂 Also, temperature depends a lot on the iron, tip size and the board itself, for example, even at 400°C, with flux and low melt solder, I still struggled to remove some blown capacitors on an Xbox. The original solder was probably lead-free and it was almost impossible lol

Sam Meek

Amazing! I feel better now for knowing my solder was rubbish and not my soldering skills lol 😆

Sam Meek

That's a relief, and you got it to work, so all good 😄

Mark Claydon

You made me happy, you gave low melt solder a try. 🙂 It works! 😉