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This design is included in our Welcome Pack with a paid membership:

►Access the Welcome Pack here

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If you already have the files, here is all the INFO:▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️If you don't have your Halloween costume yet, you might even be able to print it before Halloween, or you can always wear a Santa outfit, and be a real life Jack Skellington for Christmas!

We also provided a sizing chart for it, so you'll know what % to scale to fit your head perfectly and a guide how to measure your head circumference.The default 100% size should easily fit an average size adult head with a head circumference of 23.2 inches - (around 58.9cm) US hat size 7_3/8

Recommended filaments:

►Polymaker PLA Matte Or, you can use Dual Silk & gradient filaments:

►ERYONE Silk Dual Color PLA Filament

►iSANMATE Matte Gradient

Print difficulty level: Intermediate

Recommended print settings: (If you use Bambu or Orca slicer, all the print settings are automatically loaded in the 3mf file)Layer height: 0.2mmWall loops: 2Infill: 8%, GyroidSupport: In the 3mf file we added manual supports so if you load that in Bambu Studio you are good to go, if you use another slicer: you can activate Auto Tree(Organic) supports with a 30 degree threshold angle, TopZ distance 0.28, BottomZ distance 0.2, and you can add support blockers so the slicer doesn't put supports under the top dome of the head and under the eyes.The only place you need supports is the bottom rim on the mask.

Print time: 16h

Painting and post-processing instructions (optional, you can also just skip the steps and only paint the eyes and mouth with black acrylic for a quick result, or use pretty gradient, silk or dual silk filaments too, which gives pretty colors without the need of painting)

To achieve an organic, finished look on your Jack Skellington mask printed with white filament, you can follow these steps:

1. Prep: Use white filament and sand the model lightly to smooth any layer lines (recommended to use wood filler/or plastic putty, and primer spray with a little bit of sanding to minimize layer lines visibility)

2.Painting the eyes and adding texture with dry brushing: Use a gray or black acrylic paint to dry brush around the edges, contours, and cracks to bring out the mask's details on the mouth and eyes.

3.Layering shades: apply white or light gray paint, leaving subtle darker areas to mimic shadows. For a worn effect, mix in very diluted brown or sepia tones.

4.Sealing: finish with a matte clear coat over the mask, also you can use gloss varnish if you want to have a shiny surface for the end look. (or you can only apply the varnish on the eyes, so they stand out more in texture

Resources for painting and post processing:

Filament: Polymaker PLA Matte White

Filler Primer: Rust-Oleum Filler and Sandable Primer Spray 

Sandpaper: 3m Pro Grade Grit: 120, 3m Pro Grade Grit:220, 3M Wet or dry Sandpaper Grit: 600 and/or Bates- Sandpaper, 18 Pack, 12 Grits, 120 to 3000

Primer: Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Spray Paint White

Paint: Fantastory Craft Acrylic Paint Set

Clear coat finish: Rust-Oleum Matte Clear Coat or if you want glossy look Rust-Oleum Clear Gloss

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---- Check out our full designs list at the Serev3D Vault ----

---- Check out our Community Prints collection, all the prints made by our amazing members! ---

▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️▫️▪️Have a fun 3d printing time!!-The Serev3D team.

Files

Comments

Cliff Gronholm

I may be joining soon... ur killin it

SEREV3d

Thanks a lot! We'll have a lot of awesome stuff coming up!:)

TrapJaw Dad

Yooo! I’ll get extra points for sure when I print this for my wife! She’s been a Skellington fan for life! She liked the pumpkin too, btw

SEREV3d

Extra wife points are always very valuable haha I was even hesitating to release it first, since we are so close to Halloween, so people might not have the time to print it...but then I realized Jack's story is EXACTLY about what I'm trying to do: taking over Christmas with spooky stuff:) So for sure there will be quite a few more Nightmare Before Christmas related things coming, with a little bit of a Christmas theme.

Glimflicker

At 100% scaling, it's actually too tall for the X1C. Sadly the slicer didn't warn me and I didn't realize it until the nozzle was knocking the mask all over the place inside the chamber.

SEREV3d

Oh no, I'm glad you noticed the chaos in time, it would have been real bad if you were not there and leave it completely unattended! Which slicer are you using by the way? Because most slicers should 100% of the time warn you if the model is out of your printer's physical boundaries, and usually it won't even let you to send the g-code over your printer util the whole model stays within the boundaries. (with Bambu, Orca and Prusa slicers that's the case. But also, you must make sure that in your settings, you pick your own printer model and brand, so the slicer knows what are the exact parameters and hardware capabilities your printer model has.

Glimflicker

I opened the .3mf file in Bambu Studio and it sliced fine without any warning dialogs. As always I might have missed something, but I've run into enough warnings where their slicer simply wouldn't let me print in the past--and that wasn't the case here. I'll play with it tomorrow, just worn out from taking the kids out while wearing the mask tonight. There's always more to learn, haha.

Glimflicker

I couldn't sleep due to awesome trick-or-treaters so I tried it again just now in their slicer and it didn't complain about a height issue. I compared my slicer's image to the sliced image you uploaded and I see the same issue there (Bambu Lab P1S 0.4 nozzle). The top of that image shows a slightly darker red region that looks like you're not allowing supports there, but it's actually much more sinister than that. That's the no fly zone.