Inclusive Sizing Is More Than Adding Inches (a rant) (Patreon)

Look, I get it. There is a lot that goes into grading a pattern.

And there is a LOT more that goes into grading a pattern that is genuinely size inclusive.

I don't necessarily think it is hard work, but it can absolutely be difficult work. Finding fit models, doing the testing, looking at proportions, making adjustments, testing those adjustments again, and again, and again... it takes time, money, and a willingness to actually learn from bodies that aren't your own.

And no, we are not getting into cup sizes in this conversation. That's another rant.

My biggest gripe is with pattern designers who have been designing for years, have gone to school for pattern design, and yet their largest size is still a 38" or 40" waist, B cup only, and their size range isn’t consistent.

At some point, I have to ask: why?

Especially when the pattern is being graded using a linear grading method.

For anyone unfamiliar, linear grading essentially means increasing the pattern by the same amount as you move up through the sizes. The problem is that human bodies don't work linearly.

As bodies get larger, everything doesn't increase at the same rate. Shoulder width, bust distribution, waist-to-hip ratio, rise depth, torso proportions, and so many other measurements change differently from person to person and size to size.

Plus-size bodies don't magically need dramatically wider shoulders, wrists stay relatively similar in circumference, and your body does not suddenly become longer just because you're wearing a larger size.

If we simply keep adding the same amount everywhere, we're repeating one of the biggest problems in fast fashion: assuming that one proportional system works for everybody.

And honestly? If you went to school for pattern design and have since built enough financial stability through selling patterns, I personally believe you have an obligation to keep developing your skills.

You can pay for a fit model.

You can expand your size range.

You can learn how to fit body types that aren't your own.

You can learn about proportions.

You can test.

You can adjust.

And then you can test again.

I want to be transparent about what that looks like in my own patterning business.

I currently work with two paid fit models, plus myself.

My first fit model is me. I test around the smallest size on my chart, a size 6, and obviously I'm the most readily available person to test a pattern on.

My second fit model is a size 16 based on my upper-bust measurement. She's closer to the middle of my size range. She actually drives all the way from Richmond during business trips, and I make sure we're checking that the proportions transition correctly from a size 6 through a size 16.

And then there's my size 30 fit model, who lives all the way in New Zealand.

Because apparently I decided that geography nor timezones were not going to stop me from getting this right.

For her fittings, we FaceTime through the fit testing process. I take a ridiculous number of notes, we look at what the garment is doing on her body, and I make adjustments as we go.

She is closer to the upper end of my size range, and she is pivotal to my inclusive patterning process.

None of my patterns would be as good without her.

And yes, I pay my fit models.

My size 16 model is paid monthly because she also helps me run my business in addition to modeling for me (hi Miranda <3).

My size 30 model is paid $35–$50 per mockup (these add up quickly), depending on the alterations required.

That is a necessary business expense.

And that's before we even get into pattern testing.

Pattern testing is a completely different part of the process. Once a pattern has been graded and fit tested, testers make the pattern themselves and tell me what's working, what's not working, what instructions are confusing, where something isn't behaving the way it should, and everything in between.

A typical pattern test can have 20–30 testers, depending on the pattern and my capacity.

That's 20–30 people giving their time, sewing the pattern, reading the instructions, taking photos, providing feedback, and helping me catch things I might have missed.

So yes.

Making an inclusive sewing pattern takes a shit ton of work.

It takes money.

It takes time.

It takes humility.

And it takes a whole damn community.

But I genuinely believe it is worth it.

Because if I'm going to put a pattern out into the world and call it size inclusive, I want it to actually fit more than a spreadsheet.

And that's the part I wish more pattern designers would talk about.

What does "size inclusive" actually mean to you?

Is offering a larger size range enough? Should designers be expected to fit test across their entire size range? Where do you think the responsibility falls—on the designer, the customer, or both?

Because I have thoughts. Obviously.