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I’ve been asked a few times lately why I layer the paint to get the depth of colour that I want rather than applying one layer at the desired darkness.

That’s a great question and I’ll attempt to answer it here.

Tonal values are the darkness and lightness of a colour or more clearly they are pigment concentrations. A darker or stronger tone in watercolour has more pigment and a weaker or lighter tone has less pigment and more water. Indicating the tonal values in your paintings is crucial to the success of your painting. Tonal values in your paintings is the most important element you can use to create depth and dimension. They are more important to the success of your painting than the actual colours or hues that you use.

The question is: ‘Why don’t you paint the dark areas once with lots of pigment instead of painting them over and over with lots of layers?’

When we paint in watercolour it’s best to paint the lightest tonal values first and gradually get darker. You’ll hear me say in a lot of my tutorials that ‘I like to sneak up on my darks’ and ‘I know I can go darker by painting another layer but if I go too dark too quickly then I have nowhere to go.’ I always start light in tonal value and then I slowly build the tonal value up while I leave some areas of those first lighter washes showing in the lightest areas of the painting.

I don’t know how dark I want a particular shape to be until I’m almost at the end of my painting when I can start to compare all of my tonal values on the painting. I ask myself, ‘Does this area here need to be darker than this area beside it?’ If I decide it does need to be darker I’ll give it another layer or two of the colour that I was using or maybe that colour isn’t dark enough. Maybe I need to choose a colour that has a larger tonal range than that first colour I was using. For example, if I was painting a brown subject and I was using Brown Ochre. If I put Brown Ochre on the paper at its full intensity it may not be dark enough for my needs. I may need to paint over some areas where I had Brown Ochre with Van Dyke Brown or Sepia to get it as dark as I think I need it.

Sometimes I think I’ve got an area dark enough but then when it’s dry I can see that it isn’t so then I have to give it another layer. All the way through the painting I’m comparing one tonal value with another and its important to start light so that I can compare those darker tones with my lightest tones.

Another reason to not paint the darks too early is if you put dark colour on your paper in the early stages of your painting you risk disturbing the colour because dark colours lift more easily than light colours. So it’s best not to jump from light tonal values to dark tonal values too quickly. Build your tonal values slowly. Keep them for the final stages of the painting so you don’t disturb them by painting over them and you will see your painting transform from ordinary to spectacular when you add them in.

I hope this helps to answer the question.

Louise

🤎

PS: I’m currently working on a tutorial of this old pickup truck for you. Diane Morin kindly gave me permission to paint from her photo. I’ll be posting the tutorial on Patreon next month.

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Comments

Danielle Gagnon

Ah! Je comprends pourquoi mes fleurs semblent bizarres et plates, un peu comme un casse-tête, aucun unité. Mes ombres sont faites trop rapidement et je ne bâtis pas assez mes valeurs tonales. Je manque de patience, c'est vrai. Mais là, je sais quoi faire. Merci Louise!

Louise De Masi

Merveilleux! Je suis content que vous ayez eu un "moment de percée" !

Deborah Folkes

did you do a tutorial on the truck would love to paint it

Louise De Masi

Hi Deborah. Yes I did. You'll find all the tutorials on Patreon here on this index: https://www.louisedemasi.com/patreon-index The images are linked to the tutorials when you click on them. The truck is down the bottom under the heading 'Miscellaneous' . Thanks!

Kym Thompson

Wonderfully helpful advice Louise!!! Thank you very much!

Shelly Solle

Is there going to be a tutorial on this one?

Louise De Masi

Yes Shelly. I'm working on it today. It will be posted next month.

Albena de Koning

Thank you for the detailed explanation, Louise ! This is one of the many important things I learned from you, indeed. Fine transitions of the tonal valuwes make a great difference ! As you say "from ordinary to spactacular "!

Vicki Falsgraf

Thank you so much. It is really helpful.

Vicki Falsgraf

Do you ever work on bright white paper as opposed to the regular Arches paper?

Margaret B Smith

Many thanks Louise, I am looking forward to the tutorial. Your tuition has been a great help, and with each lesson there is improvement. Thank you so much.

Louise De Masi

Thank you Vicki. I'm not sure I've ever used the bright white paper but only because I find it easier to locate the regular paper over here in Australia. My suppliers only seem to have the regular paper.

Fadila Sides

it's verry good thanks Louise

Basia

great information as ever, I am looking forward to the video, also please consider doing a paper comparison video (if you haven't)....I have just discovered Saunders Waterford....and it is my new favourite!

Augusto Machado

Hello Luise, how is it going? I cant wait to paint this wonderful truck! Cheers!!

Louise De Masi

Hi Augusto. I'm working on it! I should have it ready next month. Thank you!

Louise De Masi

Thanks Basia. I like Saunders Waterford too. I have a pad of it here at home.

Laura Andersen

Been wanting to paint an old truck.lol forward to seeing it

Melissa Turner

I am so excitedy waiting for this tutorial! During your tutorial, will you possibly be discussing layering techniques with granulating pigments versus staining pigments? I often struggle with my granulating pigments lifting when layering.

Louise De Masi

Good suggestion Melissa. I haven't noticed that myself. I'll look more closely and see if I have the same problem. I can talk about that in a future tutorial. Thanks.

Delores Lopez

Thank you for such a good explanation. You are always very thorough with your information.

Katherine Fox

I don’t know the technical terms but going dark in a single layer w/watercolor produces some extremely flat paintings that look totally unrealistic. If the goal is for realism it really must be built up in many layers. I know in loose style watercolor they tend to only use only a single layer, but they’re often using opaque, thick pigment. Realism calls for thin, transparent pigments with multiple layers, saving thicker consistencies of paint for the final layers.