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Making More From Less - Why Small D&D Houses Can Be Better. (Patreon)

Published:
2021-01-17 00:19:56
Imported:
2026-06
Tags:
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Content

Forgive the lack of thumbnail - that's tomorrow's job...

The video is however, fully complete apart from things like the description, links etc, so I thought I'd upload it for you guys to enjoy early if you wanted :)

If I mention something will be in the pinned comment or description I'll be sorting those tomorrow - enjoy!

In other news, I'll be organising the next poll and livestream soon, and after I take a well deserved day off I'll be starting work on the next video, which is an expansion to the grassland tiles to allow you to show highly detailed roads and paths, with removable magnetic accessories that need no ugly bases to stand up...

Well....that's the theory. I'll let you know how it's going after the prototype stage!

Pinned comment:

Blue painting

This is the exact mix and method I used to get the blue roof - feel free to use different paints, but honestly different brands can vary so much in tone and opacity, if you don't use the same paints it's hard for me to say the result will be similar :)

I started with a 1:1 mix of daler rowney phthalo blue to mod podge

Then paint 1/2 the tiles with a mix of blue and white shown below, and the other half with the other mix

It's good to leave a bit of the basecoat in the shadows of the tile above, and thin the paint with water a bit (about a 1:1 ratio) otherwise it'll be too strong/bright for the drybrush to show well.

4:1 phthalo blue to white (dark)

2:1 phthalo blue to white (light)

Then drybrush with 1:1 phthalo blue to white along the bottom edges of the tiles mainly, keeping it gentle so it shows up against the basecoats but doesn’t overwhelm it. I also gave a lighter drybrush over the whole of the tiles (except the shadowed bits) to pick out the details a little. Basically you want the bottom of the tile brighter/more drybrushed than the rest :)

Tin safety tips:

Wear thick gloves (I use woodcutting gloves)

Cut with scissors - use cheap ones, they will get wrecked for other uses…

Use a metal nail file to file down the edges to be less sharp

I don't always bother filing down the tin when it is going to be hidden/not touched very much, but that is MY risk to take. I do not advise you do this, and having warned you I do not accept any responsibility for you doing so! Just so we're clear ;)

Files

Previews only

Making More From Less - Why a Small D&D House Can Be Better.

Crafting an XPS foam (D&D) house seems a rite of passage for crafting, especially for tabletop gaming and wargaming, but also for other crafting goals like a fairy gardens. D&D is obviously my main focus here, but because this is all modular terrain, it can work well for a lot more than that :) The main idea with showing the difference between a large and small D&D house here is both that you don't need to make much to get started, but also that if you make that small start modular, you can keep using it in larger crafts. Equally, if you've built a ton of tiles for bigger buildings or houses, a few new tiles can give those walls and floors a ton more uses, and look far more detailed as a larger house to boot. ⚔️ SUPPORT BY JOINING THE ARCHIVE ON PATREON: https://www.patreon.com/RPArchive 🛠️ SUPPORT BY BUYING EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS: http://bit.ly/RPEquipment 🔔 Subscribe and click the bell for more D&D terrain! 👍 If you found this helpful, help me out and like the video up there! Other builds featured in this video: Stone tiles/doors/windows: https://youtu.be/mB08dC5aAo8 Cottage tiles/foam roof upgrades: https://youtu.be/N1GJ3KXnbDQ Modular roof tiles: https://youtu.be/wtofCTyNa1I Modular Stairs: https://youtu.be/kQGrkW_LEAo Grassland tiles: https://youtu.be/DzvJIozUXWY Magnetic crates and barrels: https://youtu.be/Oc7ntY9JAmU Magnetic tables/accessories: https://youtu.be/Im1Zx9bTmdQ More food accessories: https://youtu.be/-2HijtfE60U Windowboxes: https://youtu.be/MUt8BFPlUS8 Timestamps 00:00 Intro/Crafting the main pieces 04:25 Crafting the edges 07:18 Crafting the tiles 08:02 Crafting the Dormer/T junction Check out my full modular terrain systems: http://bit.ly/RPArchiveChannel Follow the channel to make sure you catch new videos as they're released: Facebook: http://bit.ly/RPArchiveFB Instagram: http://bit.ly/RPArchiveINSTA For any metric users who aren't comfortable with using the inches side of the ruler, I've linked a conversion calculator here: https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/length/inch-to-mm.html #Rparchive #Archivemodularterrain

Comments

Justin Dow

Hello! Love your content and thrilled to be a subscriber. I apologize for posting a comment on a super old video, but I have a question about the roof tiles -- I'm sure this is just me being thick, but how long/wide should the pieces be that were cutting 45* angles into? You mention cutting them down and cutting the angle, but I think I missed the dimensions you cut them down to. I think I have my angles or measurements wrong because my test piece wasn't wide enough to fit over the flanking walls.

RPArchive
>>63260730

Thank you man! I really appreciate the patreon support :) Are you watching the stable video (thatch) or the updated modular roof video (tiles)? If the former, I'd advise watching the latter and doing that design instead, it's more up to date. I'd also advise watching the cottage video, I do a trick to make the tiles/thatch swappable, which is easy to add while making it in the first place :) For the length, if you go to 06:19 of the roof video, you can see how I use the supporting triangular wall tile to measure and cut the angles on the roof edge in the right place/to the right size. I think the bit you're getting confused by is the second cut? Basically I used the wall to measure again, and cut one angle lining up with the bottom of the wall, just like the cut lining up with the vertical edge, while making sure the top was still lined up. At this point the roof would fit over the wall, but would be too wide (if you just cut this and left it) Once I had that horizontal measurement, I measured 1/2" along the cut line (horizontally, from the underside, where the inner edge of the wall underneath would go, to the top side, where the outer edge of the wall underneath would go), and marked that point, adding another 45 degree cut across it like you can see at 7:07 Then at 11:47 ish I show how I used that edge piece as a template to mark the size/angle of the larger/other roof pieces :) Bear in mind half the edge pieces need the slots on the opposite side, so you'll have a left piece and a right piece on each side, if you know what I mean? Basically the key is using the wall piece to measure out the angles and distance, measure a half inch out to fit the wall underneath it, then mark them for cutting accurately :) That's a lot of info so feel free to ask more clarification if you need it!

Justin Dow

Awesome! That helps a lot. And now I'm pretty sure I realize my mistake. I cut it down to 2 and 3/16...not *13*/16. 😅 Thank you again!