Home
Creators
Search Recent Missing Random
Posts
Search DMs Popular Hash Lookup Tags Random
Importer
Import FAQ
Register Favorites Keys Review DMs Logout
Community
Telegram ThePornDude
Home Creators Posts Import Register Favorites Logout

Smartphone to Laptop transformation (no sponsor) (Patreon)

Published:
2020-07-24 20:30:23
Imported:
2026-06
haven't archived this post yet. have a subscription? use the importer!

Content

Yo my dudes! Here's a sponsor free version of my latest video for you guys :)

Files

Previews only

smartphone laptop no sponsor

Got a smashed phone? Turn it into a laptop! This is the screen we'll be using: https://geni.us/USB-C-Monitor Battery bank: https://amzn.to/3jxYXW5 Keyboard cover: https://amzn.to/2WOGxXe Big thanks to my Patreons for making this video happen! http://patreon.com/diyperks

Comments

Anonymous

Thanks! I love the way you built it to turn on and off the phone. Very unique

Graham

Having the phone mount on the back of the screen was actually quite a brilliant solution. I was curious what the back USB cable was for but that works very well.

Mike Allison

I like the idea of being able to connect even a fully functional to this setup. I don't know if I've ever seen anything like this as a purchasable item. Very well done, Matt!

Anonymous

Great video with lots of scope for those broken or damaged screens,,, Thanks Matt

Anonymous

Be nice if you provided more links to as what you used

Anonymous

I got my screen today. I plugged the control board into the back of the screen, plugged a USB-C 3.1 cable into the daughter board and my phone. Nothing happened. I'm going to keep trying, but I'm stumped right now.

Anonymous

Whoops. Start again. Nice video and idea, I'm going to use it as the basis for my own.

Anonymous

Couple questions, please. I'm a materials engineer, and so I see some of this in that context.

Anonymous

Would it be possible for you to make a few measurements of the light intensity at a few places? Ideally in Lumens. I have a very nice Chinese meter, and if you don't own one, or want to buy one right now, I could lend you mine to do it. I'm in Sheffield.

Anonymous

I'd like to revisit the design in terms of efficiency, in terms of looking at the LED output (at least the useful output), and see where the losses are.

Anonymous

And once you know that, for a given design, you could put in prices of components, and see what makes the most sense.

Anonymous

Like you can get a brighter LED, and with a tighter output in the visible region. And not send IR.

Anonymous

But that mainly means a BIGGER one, which impacts other items. Not a big deal though.

Anonymous

I'll need to check the LED output, but an IR filter might help in terms of heat.

Anonymous

Next are the Fresnel lenses. These are plastic, and maybe not best type for low transmission loss. Need to check that. Sure, ones with less loss are more expensive I'd assume, but might have a major impact on losses.

Anonymous

Next is the LCD. Be nice to know what the transmittance loss is. And compare it to a stand-alone type that is designed for though vision imaging (or at least i assume some are).

Anonymous

I didn't catch your comment about removing the polarising coating on the LCD. I'll read up on that. Perhaps that is the culprit.

Anonymous

Next is why do you have a plastic sheet UNDER the LCD? That just seems o me to be another way to reduce transmission, and make heat. Yeah? Like why not just mount the LCD "bare"?

Anonymous

In terms of cooling, yes, but not liquid cooled as a layer below the lens. You'd have MASSIVE losses then I think. Need to check, maybe water isn't really bad.

Anonymous

But i think in the least having a fan there would help.

Anonymous

Next loss is the lens. I need to work out the optics, but I'd say you want it at open aperture if you can. After all, you are projecting onto a flat surface, so depth of field is no issue.

Anonymous

So I'd say you want as big an aperture lens as you can afford. But again, need to measure the loss, and compare to calculations.

Anonymous

Next is the mirror. I've never made one, but you lose light there too. Edmunds Optics says cn go from 85% transmittance for standard front surface mirror, and get up to 95% on higher quality ones. That's a pretty big loss right there.

Anonymous

Next is the plastic cover. Depending on what you use, can lose there too. Easy to get something with low loss. Is surprising what works sometimes. Some types of cling film are VERY good at transmission of IR, but I don't have data on hand for visible. Although it's so thin, should really matter

Anonymous

Anyways, would be REALLY nice to measure your system at each point. And then can calibrate the model, and then predict what happens using different materials.

Anonymous

Would need measurent at say (1) halfway between LED and Fresnel, (2) halfway between Fresenel and LCD (3) halfway between LCD and standard lens. (4) maybe two measurents between the lens and the mirror (or just one if can get it dead centre). (5) In fact, need one WITH, and WITHOUT the mirror to get the losses. (6) last but not least, at a set distance from the mirror centre spot. (7) Bonus one, measurements at the projection surface, at centre, and edges.

Anonymous

You interested? Would really add to the design. You could make a nice video just based on that actually.

Anonymous

I am going to look up the various material data. And will make a basic model to estimate losses. So when have that, I can give it to you in exchange for the lumens measurements....:-}

Anonymous

If one were to have several cases, where you used basic components, and then same sizes, but higher quality/low loss stuff, that would be very useful. And then could do a different one using a big LED, and bigger overall system.

Anonymous

And dust? I see you have a fairly crude filter, but maybe could use better FEMA type foam: not expensive. And for between the Fesnel's, I'd be tempted to isolate them with FEMA foam to stop dust.

Anonymous

And if it does'nt get hot in the space by the mirror, I'd be tempted to seal that off from the main air circulation to stop dust.

Anonymous

To be honest, as well as measuring the lumens, it would be nice to measure temperatures at steady state. Easy to insert a thermocouple from a multi-meter (with the sides installed, obviously).

Anonymous

Could then couple that to do an enegy balance with the light loss. Not exact, but easy, and useful to see what needs better cooling.

Anonymous

Because if you cool the LED, and stop THAT heat from getting to the rest of the system, you shouldn't actually NEED to get a big heat build up if you use low loss components.

Anonymous

The LCD is the main one.

Anonymous

In fact, I a not sure it's such a great idea to use the same air from the fan exhaust to "cool" the rest of the system. How hot does it get? After it cools the LED. If it's only a degree of so, fine. But if it rises above ambient much, you not cooling the rest as much as if you had a 2nd fan. Fans aren't expensive.

Anonymous

And if you did that, the SAME fan would cool the LCD better. Blo directly across that, and then circulate out below the Fresnels. You could draw from an inlet up near the mirro, then down to the fan. Blow it across the LCD, then exit ABOVE the LED.

Anonymous

Often the FRONT of LED's doesn't get very hot, it's just the BACK of them.

Anonymous

OK, so lots of input, I hope it all seems constructive. I'm in Sheffield. It seems you are somewhere in the Land of Brexxit Boris the Covid Killer....sigh.

Anonymous

If you don't have a nice thermocouple for a multimeter, I have a spare I could lend you. I'm assuming you have a multimeter. If not, well, the Warthog instrument loan service could no doubt add that...:-}

Anonymous

In fact, I would be interested in dropping by and helping. I'm Covid free: I got a test a week ago because I was curious.

Anonymous

And sorry, if this all seems like a barrage, but I was VERY interested in this, and went through your design, and thought abiout it some more. Was MUCH easier to critique an EXISTING design: it's always the case. To REALLY make something well, you need to make at least THREE of them.

Anonymous

With some time in between.

Anonymous

As far as the light meter is concerned, I have TWO....I did a mistake on eBay, and ordered a double. From China. Is VERY good design. Very accurate from what I've see. Is the UNI-T UT383 BT (Blue Tooth model).

Anonymous

Still in sealed box actually.

Anonymous

You can get Mr. Googles to explain, but basically it uses two LEDs to measure light, and averages the outoput from the two to get just visible light. It claims +/- 4% of reading at < 10,000 Lumen and I think that's probably a fair value.

Anonymous

Is handheld, and with the BlueTooth you can mount on a tripod/stand etc, and then leave it all to stabilize, and capture te reading by BT on your phone. It has a standard camra type female threaded hole on the back that a tripod grub screw can go into.

Anonymous

Hmmm...seems to have swallowed a post.

Anonymous

I said I have a UNIT-T UT383BT (BlueToth) light sensor (reads in lumens). in fact I have TWO: my thumb ordered TWO instead of one off eBay....sigh?? The one is still pristine in the sealed box etc etc.

Anonymous

It uses two LED's at two base wavelengths. And averages the results to subtract the IR, and give just visible in Lumens. Says it is +/- 4% of reading at <9,999 Lumens. Think that's honest value too.

Anonymous

It has a standard tripod type threaded hole at the back of the case, so easy to hold in place. And with BT, you set it up, see output on your phone, and decide when steady state is reached.

Anonymous

From my tests with powerfull LEDS, they REALLY drop for the first 10-20minutes. Might be a function of cooling though: I was testing projector LED's without active cooling.

Anonymous

But that in iteslf is useful to evaluate if your cooling itself is optimum.

Anonymous

If you wanted it, I could sell it to you for whatever its's going for now, and send it for free to you. I had it on eBay I think, but didn't really persevere. I thought maybe need two at some point. Was very good price for a nice bit of kit. I see it sells for under £20 now on Banggood UK.

Anonymous

This is what I have.

Anonymous

But I don't care if you bought it, I do care if you could do the measurements though. That would be a big help. Good for you too.

Anonymous

Aha.....I see what the problem is with your projector, and not being very bright, even tho it's SUPPOSED to be a 6000 lumen LED. But those are Chinese specs.

Anonymous

Did you check the Spectrum Test Report on your LED? It's VERY revealing. There are two tests, done at drastically different voltages. The first is at 25.78V, and is what they use to justify their claim of 100W. And 6000 lumen. However the TEST report admits the truth. They only got 4200 lumen. And colour temp was 3300K.

Anonymous

Check the spectrum.VERY red.

Anonymous

And to get their claimed 5600K, they had to cut back on the volts a LOT, to reduce the reds in the output. And sure, it was the claimed temp, but VERY low lumens: 82 lumens!! With with 21V, and 0.05A.

Anonymous

You can see from the spectrums why: check the nominal Spectrum of the 5600K test: it's VERY low (45%) excpt for the one peak. Whereas the first test is much more uniform.

Anonymous

So if you run at 25V, you get about 4500 Lumens (quite a bit less than the rated 6000 lumens), and a colour temp of 3300K. Quite red.

Anonymous

So their advertised specs about 6000 lumen at 5600K and 4amps are not substantiated by their actual lab test.

Anonymous

But they likely feel safe in claiming that, because how many people actually read the spec sheets? Well, except me. And it's not so easy to measure a colour spectrum. But to measure lumens, well, for £20 ANYONE can....:-0

Anonymous

In your case, you can fix it by adjusting the LCD's colour balance. But I think that for $100, one can get a better LED.

Anonymous

Anyways, thanks for the idea. Now I can see from Mr. Google this is a VERY popular idea. I never knew.

Anonymous

Did you call up Edmund's Optics when you were researching this? They supply mirrors and fresnel lenses, and have good tech support. And are BRITISH....

Anonymous

I think the overall goal would be to make a 4K projector you can see in daylight. Or at least without bright roomlights on.

Anonymous

But to do that, you need to get a better understanding of where the losses are. And then plug them with a bit of $$$.

Anonymous

Hi Matt, great video. I wonder if you can give the sizes of the aluminium sheet you used and all of the sizes for this project (the aluminum profile and plate, in mm or cm) and another question- how did you connected the 45 degree aluminum profile? With epoxy?