Owakudani / Big Boiling Valley (Patreon)

Hey, All ٩( 'ω' )و

I didn't want to say anything unless I ~failed~ but I didn't, so now I'll share a short day trip/hike and something you might be interested in if and when you visit Japan. So basically, we just visited two places. This post (Part 1) is Owakudani (大涌谷) or the "Big Boiling Valley". Indeed!

Note: In the Edo Era, it WAS called Jigoku Dani or Hell Valley, but after a visit from the Emperor and Empress they renamed it to something less...um, hellish.

It's in Hakone on Izu Peninsula, a very popular scenic spot for tourists both Japanese and non Japanese alike. There are some stunning views of Mount Fuji and lots of hot springs, lakes, hiking trails, food....golf. Everywhere golf.

Owakudani (below) is a 3,000-year old crater created when Mount Hakone last erupted. But don't think the mountain has calmed down much since then.

Tadah!

That's a photo taken from the ropeway. There is a pretty cool-looking ropeway that runs over the crater, and that's where you'll get your best view and best photos. You see, back in the early 2000s I was writing a novel that I wanted to be set in a place exactly like this and I was planning to visit for research. Also, back then you could walk along trails inside the crater. You could really get in there with all the sulphur and stink and hike around imaging you were in a kind of hell. I really wanted to do that.THEN! Right as I was planning the trip -- sometime in 2025 -- suddenly the steam emissions increased, there was all kinds of seismic activity, and weird eruptions and the whole place shut down for the rest of the year. They were really talking like there was going to be another eruption. It was scary, but also disappointing. No trip. It eventually opened again, but no more walking around down there among the steaming vents, even now. I stopped writing my novel and never visited. #sadstory And, yes, I'm totally using the shutdown as a reason I didn't finish the novel. I should dig that puppy back out. Because...

I finally visited! Apropos of nothing really, I figured I had to go at least once. So day trip it was.

However, truthfully, knowing that you used to be able to walk around down there kind of takes the excitement out of visiting. There's not a whole lot you can do. But it does feel like you should go at least once, especially if you ride the ropeway. There are a couple places you can look down, but the views are somewhat obstructed. So much is roped off. But they were building a new restaurant/viewing area that looked like once it was open (soon?) it would have great views.

Otherwise, they're are two cafe/restaurant/souvenir shops that are crowded and have loads of fun stuff in them. You could spend a lot of time in there shopping around. Here's the bigger of the two.

As I'm sure you guessed from the big hint in the photo above, other than the steaming crater, Owakudani is famous for black onsen tamago or hot spring boiled eggs.

They really are boiled in the hot springs, too.

Richard thought they were just dyed black. The inside is white, but they do have a slight sulphur reek to them. Tasty though! Here's a neat video showing how they're boiled.

The brilliant marketing campaign for them is that if you eat ONE black onsen tamago from Owakudani you'll gain seven years of life. I told that to R after he ate his and he was super bummed. He's like I don't WANT to live seven more years. So we went and ate some of the other sulphur and sumi (charcoal) and probably food dye dyed foods, hoping to mitigate that.

There are quite a few. We did did a Black Brunch: Egg, curry bread, and ice cream. All very delicious.

It really looks like I'm pressing the ice cream against my nose. I'm not. Be warned though. We both walked around with black spotted lips all day because we kept telling the other, No, you're fine. There's no black on your mouth.

There's also ramen, popcorn...black manju cakes, quail eggs...

Really nothing to get a photo of. This one's mine of the smaller of the two buildings.

There was an ojizo statue I wanted to see. It's supposed to be over a thousand years old.

The legend is that Kukai (Kobo Daishi) carved it after visiting the area. Seeing the steaming vents and mud boiling and stark rocky land filled him with sadness, making him think about all the souls who are suffering in hell. So he carved the ojizo and left it there. Sadly, it was roped off, too.

These were cute.

Next to Owakudani, though, is Lake Ashi and Hakone Shrine. I debated visiting, but I had another place I really wanted to go and thought it would be too much to do in one day.

The above is one of the iconic views from Hakone Jinja.

You can take a very glamorous boat ride, too.

So, the reason I didn't drive to Hakone Jinja or do anything at Ashi Lake is because...Kintaro. Yes, that little boy of legend, raised on a mountain, friends with animals, incredible strong...

Well, I somehow didn't realize that his folktales all took place right near Owakudani (!!)

So in the next post (Part II), I'll show you where that is, the shrine, the hike to where he lived in the forest with his mom, all that fun stuff.

Note: Richard's doing his taxes, which he'll file tomorrow, so THEN he'll get to the Bedtime Stories. So sorry for the delay. They're coming ✨

Until then, stay safe and well, XOXO,

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