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Alpha 1 Setup Guide (PDF ) (Patreon)

Published:
2021-03-09 23:56:44
Imported:
2026-06
Tags:
A1
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Content

This 19-page PDF guide preceded the Alpha 1 eBook and was intended to offer support while the eBook was being prepared. 

The eBook forum can be accessed here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/alpha-1-ebook-49730710 

This 19-page Setup Guide was prepared for the Sony Asia Pacific Website. It should not be shared.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/g6rnzjnzqwrm1f2/Alpha%201%20Setup%20Guide.pdf?dl=0 

If you have any questions about the setup please add them to the forum below.

Files

Previews only

Comments

Lewis

Just watched a reviewer on YouTube that said that he can’t get the pixel-shift to work on A1 ??? Was you able too ?

Mark Galer
>>56265878

I am going to guess it was Tony and you need to stop watching Tony's videos. Maybe he is angry with Sony for not giving him the recent lenses to review as he made so many errors with his A1 review. I had no problem getting pixel shift to work - all 30 of my tests were composited OK - no fails. You can even shoot landscapes so long as you are aware that moving water, leaves and clouds will create artefacts in the area of movement. My Pixel Shift video tutorial shows how you can remove these artefacts in post production.

Lewis

TY... I know about watching him... but as I’m waiting for my A1... can’t help but watch everything A1 ( really not that many) I watch your timley review (fake news) & pre ordered. Got your e-book on A7C... got me a A7C and am working on getting all your setting on it...while I wait for A1.... I’ll have you setting for it when it comes... TY for ALL your helps !!!!!!!

Mark Galer
>>56281901

Because I can only hope to reach 10% of Tony's subscribers there is a real problem when incompetent reviewers are given priority to receive pre-release products that then allows them to release their videos early and, in turn, maintain their popularity. The manufacturers have to break the cycle if they want to give competent reviewers the chance to make a living at reviewing. My own review took me an entire week and I incurred more costs to set up the seven shoots than I have received in advertising revenue - which is why most reviewers photograph pot plants and things around the house.

Lewis

The greyhounds were Awesome!!! I got a benq

Lewis

i would only buy a camera that you have a e-book for !!!

Newell B Everett III

Mark - for future reference, in case you ever update this video... @ 30:24 "Custom Keys (Stills)" - buttons for Recall Custom Hold 1 and Recall Custom Hold 2 are reversed in grid to left as compared to screenshots of camera to right (doesn't particularly matter, just a nit in case you do an update).

Mark Galer
>>57496576

Unfortunately I have to live with some minor errors in the movies I make but can quickly adjust and fine-tune the eBooks. The movie was recorded after not much sleep. I will have to consider if I am up for providing timely support for the A7lV when it is finally announced if Sony are not prepared to provide me with a camera at least two weeks prior to announcement. When the dust settles I will create a short series of setup videos rather than trying to get into one long one, e.g, setting the A1 up for Action/Sports.

Newell B Everett III

Mark - please don't take offense at my post. I am impressed at the level of detail you provide (that's why I joined Patreon to support your efforts). There will be some errors along the way (just proves you are somewhat human!). In case you have any interest, I am finalizing a spreadsheet with every menu command, along with the default settings for each, your recommended settings, and my final choices. I have that for A9 & A9ii at different firmware versions as well (I was accustomed to carrying 3xA9s, with different lenses, to shoot sports - so I need some way to compare / contrast settings). It is very helpful for me to gather together any/all recommendations and my own thoughts. If you're interested, you are welcome to a copy. Note that's also why I comb through your videos in great detail.

Mark Galer
>>57498067

Absolutely no offence taken and I would be more than happy to look at your spreadsheets. I will often carry two bodies to shoot some events but often the second body will now be a compact A7C with a small prime - it can even be parked on a peak Design strap if I am not working with a second strap or camera bag.

Danny Jud

Hi Mark When creating timelapse shots with my Sony Alpha 1, I use the LRTimelapse Pro Timer as an external intervalometer. For day to night or night to day shots, I ramp the shutter speed and ISO. With my previous camera brand, I used an app for this. Basically, I can also do these settings manually on the camera, but I don't want to risk a camera shake. Therefore, I am looking for an external solution, whereby the hot shoe is already occupied by the LRTimelapse Pro Timer. Sony Imaging Edge Mobile seems to offer this functionality, but the reviews of the iOS app are terribly bad. Can you recommend another app or external device that I can safely use to remotely control ISO and shutter speed, aperture at best? Cheers!

Mark Galer
>>59810914

When shooting my own time-lapses I assigned ISO to the rear dial and was happy to move the Shutter speed or ISO by touching the camera. Problems are much more noticeable if the tripod is on shaky ground or Autofocus has been left on. Although the Sony app does indeed get terrible reviews I am sometimes at a loss to work out why so many users have trouble connecting their camera to their phone. At a Sony event, just before COVID, we asked 100 camera retailers to create photographs in an amusement park and then transfer their best image to their phone to send to us as part of a mini competition. All 100 of the participants successfully connected their camera to the phone after following the directions I would give this app a go before you rule it out. You may just be one of the one's that wonders what all the fuss was about. If you don't want to shoot tethered to the desktop version of Imaging Edge then I am not aware of applications or devices that can talk to the Sony camera's basic controls to alter these settings.

John A Fleming

Good morning, Mark. I’d appreciate your general advice re A1 settings (focus, metering, and anti-flickering) for shooting dance performances in changing, difficult lighting. With my previous A9 and A92 bodies, I used the 85mm 1.8, shutter speed 250 to 800, Auto ISO (up to 25000), and got generally good results, after some post work in Lightroom. If the banding was too pronounced, I’d convert to B&W. With the enhancements in the A1, would you suggest any different settings? As for lenses, the 85MM is a tad strong. The 55MM would work, but it’s not as fast; the new 50MM GM is a possibility - but very $$$$, and heavy.. Thoughts?

Mark Galer
>>73757756

You may want to switch to Shutter Priority and test out the variable Shutter feature if you notice any flickering on the monitor that is a result of high frequency lights such as LEDs. Move your shutter speed to your preferred shutter speed, then enable the Variable Shutter feature and the fine-tune the shutter speed in very small increments until the flickering on the monitor or in the finder disappears. If you are encountering low frequency banding then the Anti-flicker option would be your best bet. The 55 is not the fastest prime in Sony's stable but if the dancers are not rushing towards you it might just be fast enough, especially if the shutter speeds are below 1/500 second which I would normally only use if people are moving at walking pace. The ZA can definitely keep up in these situations. The FE 50mm F1.8 is perhaps ever slower focussing than the 55 ZA. The new 50mm F2.5 G has fast AF but also has an aperture one stop less bright than the F1.8 primes. I often have just three primes in my camera bag and sometimes jump from the 35mm to the 85mm. If the 35mm is not creating a tight enough composition I take two steps closer or crop in-camera (APS-C mode) or crop in post. I am currently using the 35mm F1.4 GM but the small, cheap and lightweight FE 35mm F1.8 prime has a solid reputation for being very sharp and having fast AF performance. Together with the 85mm F1.8 they represent Sony's best value-for money full-frame lenses that money can buy.

John A Fleming

I love my 55mm ZA for its quality and size - I’ll never sell it. But for dance, I decided to go with the 50mm GM, wide open. If the backdrop is dark / black, no banding. If it’s light colored, then I have a problem. Will try setting Anti-flicker to On. If I used the mechanical shutter, no problem, but the shutter noise disturbs, so I use electronic shutter. At 1.2, fast focusing, the 50mm should do the trick - I hope. I saw your review of this lens, along with others - not a bad word and superlative pictures. Am getting the lens tomorrow and will try out it next week. I was surprised - its size and weight was less than the competition. I’m also thinking of swapping out my 135mm Batis for the GM, but haven’t decided yet. The Zeiss APO is a quality lens - not as fast focusing, but still…

Mark Galer
>>73799212

The 50mm GM is the best choice but I didn't want to jump to recommending the most expensive lens first. Good glass is for life - just as the 55 ZA is every bit as sharp as it was when it was first released in 2013 and has probably earned its place in many a pro photographers camera bag.

John A Fleming

Amen to that Mark. I’m more of a 50mm shooter than a 35mm or wider, so I’m fine with two fine 50’s, especially when I need something small. I love the 35mm 1/8 and am good there. Need to add the 20mm 1/8. I’m going to sell my bulky zooms and stick to primes (24-70 GM, 70-200, and 24-240); I’ll keep the 100-400 GM for occasional wildlife, for now. No need to own 10 lenses gathering dust when I only use 3.

Mark Galer
>>73821831

I usually move a lens along if it has not been used for 12 months. The 100-400 and 20mm both get a lot of use so these will be keepers.