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August 2021 Q&A (Patreon)

Published:
2021-07-31 22:01:02
Imported:
2026-06
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Content

Please ask your photography questions during the month of August in this forum.

If you have questions that are specific to 'APS-C + A7C' cameras or the Alpha One camera you may choose to use these forums instead.

Alpha One Forum: https://www.patreon.com/posts/alpha-one-forum-49846717

APS-C & A7C From: https://www.patreon.com/posts/aps-c-a7c-forum-52863184

The forum image is of a Cassowary - the third-tallest and second-heaviest living bird, smaller only than the ostrich and emu. The cassowary has often been labeled "the world's most dangerous bird". I hope my photo of this cassowary does this label justice.  Needless to say I am at maximum zoom ;-)

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Comments

Amnon Gabbay

Hi Mark, Thank you kindly for the most insightful and enriching content. I have a major focusing issue with my new Sony a7R5, of which I cannot find a resolution up to now, including by the Sony service center which is still trying to find a solution as we speak. On an opening note, I shoot mostly with the 200-600mm. For the start, on various occasions, although it seems that the camera does recognize the eye, the focus is not centering on the eye, by slightly down and left. Moreover, when shooting in burst mode, the focus keeps drifting during the burst, even while the subject is static, and sharply defined within the frame with a firm eye contrast. Enclosed is a link with a photo serious example that shows the issue. The focus drift can be clearly seen using the focus point marker in the Sony imaging software. The problem is more apparent on 600mm rather than 400mm, and on AF tracking rather than other modes, but nonetheless, out of the thousands of the birds’ photos I took, in the vast majority, over 80% I presume, the focus is not in place. drive.google.com/drive/folders/11krQdswdpLL93DZW_OkiQLKHddZjUmrR Much appreciate your valuable insights, as I’m thinking of giving up on the camera. Thanks again

Mark Galer
>>105175016

Hi Amnon Can you please move this question to the March 2023 Q&A. This forum is an old August 2021 forum that Mark is no longer servicing. Thanks Best Wishes Admin Team for Mark Galer Patreon Navigation Video Tutorial 
https://youtu.be/gqGuS-XLEhs

rodrigo tomas

Good day Mark. When the camera is on a tripod, I do find better quality when stabilization of the lens is off. should the one in the camara also be turned off. or for that matter any of them?

Mark Galer
>>66851916

If there is stabilisation on the lens the SteadyShot setting on the camera is grayed out. It’s all of nothing. Check out my SteadyShot video tutorial for in-depth coverage on the topic.

Flemming Morgan

Hi Mark, do you use Topaz DeNoise in Lightroom Classic? I seem to recall a mention in one of your seminars or posts. If so, do you have any tutorials or advice on using it? Best wishes

Mark Galer
>>66863236

I use it as a standalone app - it’s a bit slow so I edit an image in lightroom and export a 4K image (8 Megapixels) and DeNoise as the last step. I covered the workflow in a recent seminar so check out the seminar archives (I have added time stamps in the info section below the recent seminars).

Maggie White

Is there any way of doing "In Camera" Focus Stacking/Bracketting with the A1. I know it is available with other Brands.

S C

Hi Mark - I have an A9II camera and these lenses. What are the best options for taking soccer photos at a (probably mediocrely lit) game from the sideline? If I rented a lens, what would be the best option? Also, do you have an evening sports settings somewhere here? FE2.8/70-200mm GM OSS, FE 4.5 - 5.6/70mm-300 G OSS or FE 4.5-5.6/100-400GM OSS. Thanks for your insight!

Mark Galer
>>66867542

Unfortunately there is not. You would have to use Photoshop or a program called Helicon Focus which is popular amongst Macro Photographers. If it is for Landscape, where Focus bracketing is rarely necessary, you may want to explore using Hyperfocal Distance before resorting to focus stacking.

Raph Greenberg

Hi Mark, Do you have any PDFs on making a custom white balance for my infrared photography work? I have converted my new to me a6500 to be a full spectrum camera and have a variety of filters so that I can shoot in different types of IR. Thank you in advance for your time. Sincerely, Ralph

Mark Galer
>>66892768

The 100-400 is the fastest focussing lens of the the three you have listed but the 70-200 has the advantage of the wider aperture if the ambient light is low. The 70-300 has slower AF and does not have a very wide aperture so would be my last pick. Sports photographers often have to carry a second body with standard zoom attached for when the action is very close to their vantage point (no time to change lens). I shoot everything with my three PAL settings but fine-tune one of these settings from their default starting point as the situation demands, e.g., my Action settings are designed to freeze fast moving action but when your ISO gets uncomfortably high you have to make the decision to either live with the High ISO or use slower shutter speeds and use creative motion blur that will happen if your lower the ISO Auto Min SS from 1/2000 to 1/500 or 1/250 and switch the SteradyShot on the lens to Mode 2 or to off if the action is erratic. If you rented a lens it would be the FE 400 F2.8 GM which is the standard Pro Sports photography lens for these types of events.

S C

Hi Mark (again) - Do you have little cheat cards with your current Cam Settings that can be printed? As I experiment more with your settings out and about, I sometimes find myself second guessing what I have learned from your movies and read in your guides or forgetting which little setting to tweak. I LOVE the "PAL" settings - I can remember that, no problem. I'm thinking more of the action settings where I can make small adjustments to your settings based on lighting, movement, objects etc. There are so many instances where a slight adjustment will make all the difference in the end product. This is where I am located in my learning. I take tons of photos, every day, sometimes adjusting settings on a single subject just so I can look at them later and decide what worked best at sunset/sunrise/stadium lighting/poor stadium lighting etc. Anyway. I very much appreciate your work here. You've taught me a lot!

Maggie White

Hi Mark, I am going to the Bournmouth Air Display (UK) this weekend and wish to shoot aircraft (Not literally). Which is the best Focus Area to use o the A1. Do I actually turn off the "Face/Eye Prior. in AF" to "OFF" as I wont be doing animal/Bird/Face. Will probably use my 100-400 and may be the 1.4 x tele converter. I will be on an anchored boat so it may be a bit wobbly! P.S. Any other tips appreciated.

Mark Galer
>>66956841

It's an interesting idea but at the moment you would just have to print the table on the page from the eBook. I encourage everyone to watch the memory Mastermind video if someone wants to really get to grips with using the PAL workflow as it demonstrates what drives me to modify the default settings I have registered to 1, 2 or 3.

Mark Galer
>>66965851

You will notice that I start with Zone for my Action settings but will override this for either AF Tracking Wide or AF Tracking Expand Flexible Spot when the situation dictates. If there is one plane in the sky then Wide is your best friend. If there are foreground obstacles when you need to acquire focus or your subject is towards the edge of the frame then Expand Flexible Spot may be your best choice. My Focus Area is the video tutorial to rewatch if you need to learn when to adjust the Focus Area. There is no one best Focus Area just as there is no one best gear in a car. As the situation changes it should become a natural and almost automatic response to change the focus area. Practice changing the Focus Area with the camera at your eye pressing the C2 key and choosing an alternative Focus Area using the Front and Rear dials. Don't use the Teleconverter if you are close enough to either use APS-C mode or crop in post as Teleconverters slow the AF performance a little. If the camera is not just panning left to right or right to left (SteadyShot Mode 2) and there is significant wobble from the boat just turn SteadyShot off. Streadyshot is really only appropriate if you are trying to keep the camera very still (SteadyShot 1) or pan Smoothly.

Robert Dettman

Hi Mark, I have a Lightroom Classic question. Is there a practical upper limit to the number of images in a single catalogue?

Mark Galer
>>69393907

This question has appeared in the August Q&A. I try to avoid answering questions in old forums as they usually become private conversations. There used to be an upper limit many years ago. This saw me create a new Catalog each year. This upper limit (which was a variable) was then removed as the software engineers worked on the issue. If you notice your Catalog slowing down there are a number of ways you can address speed before resorting to starting a new Catalog. I wrote an extended blog post on the topic that can be accessed from my website: https://www.markgaler.com/need-for-speed

Colin Dilcock

On the A7IV can you input your copyright details in camera, if so I can't find it or it's not available on this model?

Mark Galer
>>76338452

MENU → (Shooting) → [File] → [Copyright Info] → desired setting. This is the August 2021 forum To ensure a speedy response please use the current forum (January 2022). The current forum is always the pinned post below the banner image or at the top of the Q&A forums