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Q&A Forum: May 2022 (Patreon)

Published:
2022-04-30 17:00:07
Imported:
2026-06
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Please ask all of your photography questions during the month of May 2022 using this forum. When replying to a post that is more than a few days old please start a new discussion thread as it will be easier for me to find your question. Thanks.

PLEASE NOTE > Questions asked via the Patreon Message service will only be answered by my Admin Staff.

For camera-specific forums please click on one of the following links:

The forum image was captured at the St. Kilda Iron Man competition with the new FE 24-70mm F2.8 GM II and A1 Camera
Camera Settings were recalled via my Portrait Memory: 1/250 sec at f/2.8, ISO 200 - Focus Area was the standard AF Tracking: Zone

Files

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Comments

Sean De Freitas

Mark, I know you do a reasonable amount of overseas travel, and obviously take your expensive gear with you. I am now in the process of looking to do some international travel soon as well, but am running into a bit of a brick wall finding a travel insurance company who will cover my gear. Most will cover up to around $6,000, but depending on what gear I decide to take, it could be as much as $20k worth or even higher. I know in Australian and NZ, my home insurer (AAMI) will cover all my gear out of the home against accident, theft, fire etc, but they don't extend cover to overseas destinations (except NZ). Do you have any suggestions on this please?

Les Irwig

Not Sony, but can you give me any leads on where I can submit suggestions for modifications to the programmers of Lightroom? thanks!

Jeff Atchison

Good morning, Mark! I recently ATTEMPTED to take photos of our Blood Moon, but let’s not talk about that now (Total Failure). I was shooting in Full Manual Mode and when I was finished, I put the camera away for a while. This morning I got the A7IV out, turned the shoot mode Dial to “1” and was going to look at my Focus Area settings. My Camera would not focus with the Shutter release on Memory 1, 2 or 3. I’m pretty sure I had already turned-on “Focus with Shutter Release”, but it wasn’t working. After pressing the AF-ON button, all is good. I had made an assumption that once I went back to a numbered memory, all would be fine, but it was not. Do I have anything to worry about here?

Mark Galer
>>84749591

This is the insurance company I use (see details at bottom of response). Ask for Greg (who owns the company). He is a Sony Alpha Photographer who manages the Sony Alpha Melbourne group so will understand your insurance needs. Because my gear changes so often I have insured a total value when travelling so I don't have to remember to name new specific items. The value I insure for travelling is less than the total gear I actually own as I never expect to travel with more than 8 or 9 KG of gear. GJ Insurance Consulting Pty Ltd Corporate Authorised Representative of PSC Connect Pty Ltd GJ Insurance Consulting Pty Ltd ACN 088 306 405 AR 358983 PSC Connect Pty Ltd ABN 23 141 574 914 AFSL 344648 P 1300 384 799 | M 0437 959 347 | F 03 8678 3223 PO Box 211, Drouin VIC 3818 | 1/96 Wellington Pde, East Melbourne 3002 W www.gjic.com.au | E greg@gjic.com.au | Financial Services Guide | Privacy

Mark Galer
>>84774116

Adobe engineers will sometimes monitor their own public forums: https://community.adobe.com/t5/lightroom-classic/ct-p/ct-lightroom-classic?page=1&sort=latest_replies&lang=all&tabid=all If you wanted to steer Lightroom into the future they have an active Beta program with possibly more than 500 users who report back on bugs they find with pre-release versions of the software and also request new features. You would need to apply to be a beta tester. Try this link to see if there is an application process available: https://www.adobeprerelease.com

Mark Galer
>>84790122

Hi Jeff - there are a few camera settings that are not included in the registered memories such as Display Quality, Finder Frame Rate etc. etc. This means that there are camera settings that, if changed, will modify all three registered memories. This included the 'AF-On w/ Shutter' menu setting. This means that the registered memories will include this modified setting until the setting is manually changed back. This is one of the reasons at the start of my PAL video tutorial, in the 'Preparing to register a memory' section, that I ask users to 'Reset' their camera before registering a new memory. If you switch AF w/ Shutter back to On your 3 registered memories will work as before.

Jeff Atchison

Mark, I have a question about Flickr that I suspect you can answer. One of the things that I like about Flickr is the ability to click and zoom on my images in order to really evaluate the sharpness of the image. I have seen other images on Flickr other than my own that I cannot click and zoom. Is this an account limitation on Flickr or something else? And a related question if you don't mind. Do you have a recommendation for an image viewing program on a PC that does a good job of viewing images and can show the Meta Data of the image?

Mark Galer
>>84812128

Flickr Pro members get unlimited storage + support for 6K resolution images. If you want to provide access to the click and zoom feature you will need to pay for an annual subscription. I use Lightroom for all my imaging needs. On a PC you could encounter issues with colour management in some programs.

Jeff Atchison

Thank you Mark. I have been a paid Subscriber to Flickr since I started photography. I am not a Subscription kind of guy but I quickly learned there were 3 mandatory subscriptions. The Adobe Photography Plan, a Flickr Pro subscription and being a Mark Galer Patron.

Mark Galer
>>84847557

Thanks Jeff - I hope to continue offering value for money for my Patrons as we move forward :-)

Greg Hann

G’day Mark. Thank you for your reply to this message posted in the wrong forum. My question was: I haven’t tuned in for a while so not sure if this subject has been raised already. With the demise of the 27” iMac, you’d know Apple has brought out the Studio, with its separate monitor. Looks like most online forums/reviews suggest the ‘Max’ is fine for editing with LR and PS. Do you have any thoughts about the Studio? Your reply was - I personally would choose the Apple Studio and an SW321C 4K screen from BenQ than an iMac (even if they bring out a new 27inch iMac). Thank you. A follow up question is re the Mac Studio - it comes in two versions - the Max and the Ultra. Is the Max sufficient for LR and PS or would an Ultra be the best option? Cheers ... Greg

Mark Galer
>>84883098

Hi Greg Apple may still announce an M1 version of their popular 27inch iMac but even if this became a reality I would purchase a computer and screen separately. I previously had an iMac 27inch with 5K screen and when the motherboard died it took everything else with it - including the screen. Apple's 5K screens are also not as good as my BenQ SW321C screen which is bigger, displays colour more accurately and has a broader colour gamut. I also believe a 5K resolution screen is overkill for image editing purposes. I think the Studio with Max M1 chip is sufficient for stills image editing of 50 MP Raw files. Even the Mini Mac with M1 chip is slightly faster than an iMac 27inch with a quad core i7 processor.

Mr Stuart Harding

Hi Mark I am a complete novice and have purchased an A7iv and 200600 lens, primarily for BIF. I have uploaded your PAL files and have found 2 and 3 very useful. Note, I have changed the Aperture priority to Manual. However, when in these two memories I cannot change the exposure setting (I am using the r/h wheel). Can the exposure not be changed when in Manual - I thought in one of your videos (on zebra) it was possible to do this? Your help and advice would be most welcome. Thank you Stuart

Ken Spooner

I use sony 16-35mm lense for lot of landscape work which gets me good results. I also have sony 100 to 400mm. My question is that quite often when editing pictures taken with 16-35mm I magnify the picture and crop to enhance a feature or element in the shot get more drama into a shot . Would I be better using the 100-400mm and focus in on the feature to perhaps get a slightly better quality shot rather than working on the shoot taken with the 16-35mm lense?

Mark Galer
>>84887758

Hi Stuart When changing to Manual Exposure I have set the r/h wheel to adjust ISO in my CAMSET. This is because in Full Manual Mode (with Manual ISO) the exposure compensation function of the r/h wheel would not have any impact on exposure (it only functions by moving one of the auto functions). If you are using Manual Exposure with ISO Auto, the Exposure Compensation will increase or decrease exposure. If you want this functionality you need to go to Setup (the yellow toolbox tab) > Operation Customize > Custom Key/Dial Set > Dial/Wheel (page 5/5) and change ISO back to Exposure Comp.

Mark Galer
>>84892576

Hi Ken My Resolution and Noise seminar (a member-only seminar available from the Seminars section of the Patreon support site) illustrates the idea of cropping in camera (APS-C mode) or cropping in post -production editing to create narrower angle of view that will mimic the use of a longer focal length lens. On one of Sony's higher resolution sensors (33 MP and higher) you can make a 2x crop (discard 3/4 of the pixels) in post-production and not suffer any loss of detail when exporting a 4K image so long as you are using a premium quality lens. In this manner a 16-35 GM can match the angle of view of a 24-70 zoom lens so long as the resulting file size is sufficient to export a 4K image (no less than 2160 pixels in height. I usually carry an 85mm prime lens as well as a 35mm prime (the jump to 100-400 from 16-35 may require something slightly shorter than 100mm in some instances) and I outline my own personal workflow in the 'Lens Choice' video tutorial.

Gert

Hi, I own the A1 and the A7IV. What is your preferred approach to transfer photos between cam and smartphone/iPAD? Do you start transfer from cam (display +Fn) or via “Bluetooth always on”? I’d like to find an easy approach which works for booth cameras the same way. I could not find the same feature at A1 to wake camera up via Bluetooth to transfer photos.Thank you.

Gert

Another similar topic: connecting the cam to PC. When transferring via IP or USB I have to select the proper card (RAW or JPG). Will it be better to use FTP or Imaging Edge? It seems to be easier to read out the cards from card reader? Connecting via WiFi probably is slow. Of course I would prefer an identical approach for both cameras.

Mark Galer
>>85935520

If it's just one Photo I want to share on social media I would transfer a JPEG from slot 2 rather than the Raw file from Slot 1 If you press the menu button when reviewing an image you will be taken to the Playback menu where you can change the 'Select Playback Media' from the 'Playback Target' menu. When reviewing a JPEG image on Slot 2 I may want to crop the image by using the Crop option in the Edit menu (also in the playback menus) before transferring to to my phone. When I am ready to send the image to my phone I simply open Imaging Edge on my phone and then hit the Fn /Send to Smartphone button on the back of the camera. if you have resisted the camera with Imaging Edge on the smartphone before it should connect easily. To Transfer multiple Raw images to phone or tablet I would connect the camera to the mobile device via a cable or use a Card reader. There is an illustration in the eBook of the workflow I use as Apple Phones with lightening connectors may need a power supply to be added to the connection when connecting the camera directly. The A7IV made various changes to the connect to smartphone menus to make the workflow easier so you may not see the same options on the A1.

Mark Galer
>>85936996

I personally don't recommend connecting to a computer via WiFi because it can be slow compared to USB 3.2 even if you have a 5G WiFi and have switched from 2.4 to 5 in the menus. if I was transferring multiple Raw images via WiFi I would probably recommend setting up an FTP client on the computer.