Why I Love Steaming Fish (Patreon)
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This Cantonese-inspired salmon recipe uses gentle steaming and sizzling hot oil to transform a handful of simple ingredients into a restaurant-quality dinner in about fifteen minutes flat.
There are a lot of fish recipes out there that sound healthy and virtuous and weeknight-friendly, but still somehow leave your kitchen smelling like low tide and your fish dry enough to qualify as fish jerky. This is not one of those recipes.
This is one of my favorite ways to cook fish because it hits all the things I care about most on a busy night: it’s fast, it’s low-mess, it’s almost impossible to mess up, and it tastes way more impressive than the amount of effort it requires.
Traditionally, Cantonese steamed fish is done whole. You take a delicate fish like flounder or sea bass and lay it over a bed of ginger, cilantro, and scallions before steaming it in a bamboo steamer until cooked through. Afterwards, you drizzle the fish with a thin soy sauce and Chinese wine-based dressing, top it with tangle of the same aromatics, then drizzle it all with smoking hot oil, adding a burst of aroma and a bloom of flavor just before serving.
You can get my recipe for whole steamed cantonese style fish over on the New York Times (it's paywalled), and while the whole fish presentation is fun and beautiful, more and more I've found myself making it with our Pacific Northwest fish of choice, salmon.
The real trick here is not overcooking the fish. Salmon is one of those fish that goes from luscious and buttery to dry and chalky in a matter of moments. Steaming helps because it’s naturally gentle, but using a thermometer makes it nearly foolproof. I use the Predictive Thermometer from Combustion, Inc, which uses a series of sensors along its length to find the true core temp of your food even if you don't place the tip precisely in the center.
Pulling the salmon at around 105°F (41°C) gives you a center that’s translucent, silky, and tender while the exterior is perfectly warmed through.
The Science of Soaking Aromatics
One of the little tricks in this recipe is soaking the aromatics in ice water then spinning it dry before serving. This does two things.
First, it tempers harsh raw flavors. Garlic and ginger contain pungent sulfur compounds that become more aggressive when cut. A quick soak pulls some of those compounds into the water, leaving the aromatics fresher and cleaner tasting rather than sharp or overwhelming.
Second, it physically changes the texture of the vegetables. Scallions and herbs absorb water and firm up, which causes them to curl and puff slightly. That’s why the garnish at good Cantonese seafood restaurants often looks airy and lively instead of limp.
Then the hot oil hits those chilled aromatics, it rapidly vaporizes moisture on their surfaces, carrying all those fragrant compounds straight to your nose.
If you made the recipe for Sichuan-Style Fragrant Oil that I published a couple months back, this is an excellent place to use it instead of plain neutral oil. The infused oil adds another layer of warm spice depth and makes the final hot oil pour even more aromatic.
This is one of those recipes that scales beautifully. Once you understand the blueprint— fish + aromatics + soy-based sauce + hot oil— you can do it with black cod, halibut, rockfish, shrimp, or even tofu. The technique stays the same. Only the timing changes.
It's one of the best arguments I know for owning a steamer and a wok.
Recipe: Cantonese-Style Steamed Salmon with Aromatic Hot Oil
Every recipe I publish here is personally tested, tasted, and approved.
What I love about this recipe:
The entire thing cooks in about 10 minutes.
Steaming keeps salmon incredibly juicy.
The ginger-scallion salad gives freshness, crunch, and aroma all at once.
It feels elegant enough for guests but easy enough for a Tuesday.
Yield: 2 to 3 servingsActive Time: 15 minutesTotal Time: 25 minutesNotes: A thermometer helps enormously here. Pulling the fish around 105°F (41°C) gives you a medium-rare center. If you prefer more fully cooked salmon, go to 115 to 120°F (46 to 49°C).
Ingredients
For the salmon
1 center-cut king salmon fillet, about 1 pound (450g), skin-on
1 large knob ginger
3 scallions
2 cloves garlic
Big handful cilantro leaves and tender stems
For the sauce
2 tablespoons (30ml) light soy sauce
1 tablespoon (15ml) Shaoxing wine, dry sherry, or sake
1 tablespoon (15ml) water
1 teaspoon (4g) sugar
To finish
1 Fresno chile or other fresh red chile, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons (45ml) neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable oil
Steamed white rice, for serving
Method
Bring water to a boil in a wok or large pot fitted with a bamboo steamer or steaming rack. Thinly slice the garlic. Trim and peel the ginger, reserving the peels and trimmings. Cut the dark green tops from the scallions and reserve them as well.
Arrange the ginger trimmings and scallion tops on a heatproof plate to form a bed for the salmon. This elevates the fish slightly and allows steam to circulate underneath it.
Thinly slice the remaining scallions lengthwise or on a sharp bias. Cut the peeled ginger into thin planks, stack them, and slice into fine julienne. Combine the sliced scallions, julienned ginger, sliced garlic, and cilantro leaves and fine stems in a bowl of ice water or in a salad spinner filled with cold water. Let soak while the fish cooks.
Check the salmon for pin bones by running your fingers along the center line of the fillet. Pull any bones out with fish tweezers or clean pliers, pulling in the direction the bones are angled to avoid tearing the flesh.
Place the salmon skin-side down over the ginger and scallion bed. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest part of the fish at an angle if using.
Transfer the plate to the steamer, cover, and steam until the center reaches 105°F (41°C) for medium-rare, about 7 minutes depending on thickness. For more fully cooked salmon, continue to 115 to 120°F (46 to 49°C).
Meanwhile, combine the soy sauce, rice wine, water, and sugar in a small bowl and stir until the sugar mostly dissolves.
Remove the salmon from the steamer. Carefully slide a spatula between the skin and flesh to separate the skin if desired, blot the salmon by lowering it onto a paper towel (leave it on the spatula), then transfer the salmon to a serving plate.
Drain and thoroughly dry the soaked aromatics. Spoon the sauce over the fish, then pile about half the aromatics on top along with the sliced chile.
Heat the neutral oil in a wok or small saucepan until lightly smoking. Carefully pour the hot oil directly over the aromatics on the fish. They should sizzle aggressively and become intensely fragrant.
Top with the remaining fresh aromatics and serve immediately with rice.