Inspired by a pile of leftover barbecue and an open jar of kimchi, this smoky, cheesy, spicy sandwich takes the Reuben in a delicious new direction.

I didn't grow up eating Reubens.

The classic Jewish deli sandwich in New York was pastrami or corned beef on rye with mustard. Maybe a tongue sandwich if you were feeling adventurous. Reubens existed, of course, but they occupied a slightly odd place in deli culture. Though the sandwich dates back roughly a century and is often associated with New York delicatessens, it was never quite a staple of old-school kosher delis because, by definition, it's not kosher: It serves meat and dairy (Swiss cheese) together. A hot pastrami sandwich with mustard was the standard bearer instead.

As an adult, however, I've developed a deep appreciation for a good Reuben. What's not to like? Fatty and tender cured meat, crunchy fermented cabbage, Swiss cheese, a sweet and tangy dressing, and toasted rye bread all working together. It’s the kind of sandwich that you order when you’re looking to get a little bit sloppy with your lunch.

But what if you’re looking to get sloppy and spicy? Enter kimchi.

This particular version came about the way many of my favorite sandwiches do: through leftovers and circumstance. A group of us had gone to Outsider BBQ for my friend Kenny's birthday. (They make some of the finest Texas-style smoked brisket in Seattle. If you haven't been, it's worth a stop.)

The next day I found myself staring into a container of leftover brisket in the refrigerator before spying the Swiss cheese and an open jar of kimchi. All I needed was to buy a loaf of rye bread. The bike ride to Dingfelder’s took long enough to give me the time to think about what kind of sauce I wanted to use.

The smoky brisket steps in where corned beef or pastrami normally would. Kimchi takes over for the sauerkraut, bringing all the acidity and crunch a Reuben needs while adding garlic, chile, and funk. Instead of Russian dressing, I stirred together mayonnaise, mustard, and gochujang into a sauce that's spicy, savory, and just sweet enough to tie everything together.

The result isn't exactly a Reuben, but it's definitely a descendant.

Who’s got a good name for it?

Recipe: Kimchi Smoked Brisket Reubens

Every recipe I publish here is personally tested, tasted, and approved.

What I love about this recipe:

Kimchi brings acidity, spice, and crunch in place of traditional sauerkraut.

Gochujang mayo adds sweet heat and extra savory depth.

A perfect use for leftover smoked brisket, pastrami, or corned beef.

It reminds me of this bulgogi hoagie and this kimchi grilled cheese of times past!

Yield: 1 sandwichActive Time: 10 minutesTotal Time: 10 minutesNotes: Smoked brisket is my favorite version, but good pastrami works beautifully as well. Be sure to squeeze the kimchi dry before using it so the sandwich stays crisp rather than soggy.

Ingredients

For the gochujang mayo:

3 tablespoons (45ml) mayonnaise (such as Kewpie)

1 tablespoon (15ml) gochujang

2 teaspoons (10ml) spicy brown mustard

For the sandwich:

4 to 6 ounces (115 to 170g) sliced smoked brisket, pastrami, or corned beef

2 tablespoons softened salted butter

2 slices rye bread

1 ½ ounces (40g/about 4 slices) Swiss cheese

A handful of kimchi, drained, squeezed dry, and roughly chopped

For serving:

Kosher dill pickles or extra kimchi

Directions

Make the gochujang mayo: In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, gochujang, and mustard until homogeneous.

Heat the meat: Heat the meat slices by laying them on a plate and microwaving on high for 1 minute. Alternatively, steam them in a steamer insert set into a saucepan or wok until hot and pat dry with paper towels.

Build the sandwich: Spread 1 tablespoon of butter on one slice of bread. Place it butter-side down on a griddle or skillet preheated over medium heat. Layer on half of the Swiss cheese, followed by the hot brisket or pastrami and the chopped kimchi. Spoon a generous amount of the gochujang mayo over the top. Add the remaining Swiss cheese.

Close and cook: Butter the second slice of bread and place it on top, butter-side up. Cook, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle sizzle, occasionally pressing lightly with a spatula and moving the sandwich around the pan for even browning, until the bottom is deeply golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Flip and finish: Carefully flip the sandwich and continue cooking until the second side is deeply golden brown and the cheese is completely melted, about 3 minutes longer.

Serve: Transfer to a cutting board, slice diagonally, and serve immediately with kosher dill pickles or extra kimchi on the side.