Bullet Trains and Bento Boxes, Oh My! | Kenji Eats Japan (Patreon)

Bento boxes and bullet trains go hand in hand in more ways than one. Follow along as we enjoy a taste test and trace the history of these iconic symbols of Japan.

Content & Community Manager Erin here to introduce this episode of Kenji Eats Japan: Bento Boxes on a Bullet Train. Join Kenji and Akari to dive into bento culture and explore some of the common food offerings you might find at a Japanese train station. 

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Bento boxes and bullet trains are two of the most iconic symbols of modern-day Japan. But where did either of them come from, and how are they connected? Let’s dive in.

Bento Box History:

I’d argue, the evolution of bento boxes reflects the evolution of Japan as a nation. 

Their origins are simple and straightforward, with iterations of bento boxes appearing as early as the Kamakura period and continuing to evolve through the Edo period as an easy way to bring food to work, school, or cultural events.¹ It was during the Meiji era—a period of rapid industrialization and modernization that began in 1868—that bento boxes naturally took off in new ways. Modernization brought trains to the country and trains brought the need for food on long, steam-powered, locomotive journeys. This was the birth of “ekiben”—literally translating to “train station bento”—and from here, bento boxes were off to the races.

The evolution of bento boxes continued to hold a mirror up to society at large. In the wake of the First World War, bento boxes made out of certain materials became recognizable status symbols of your family’s wealth as the country grappled with economic turmoil. During the Second World War, resources that might typically be available for bento box production were redirected to the war effort, disconnecting the common citizen from this convenient delight. And in the post-war years, as school lunches were regulated across the country, they naturally fell further and further out of everyday use.² It was only in the 1980s with a convenience boom—as konbini, TV dinners, and the ever-helpful microwave thrived—that they came back in vogue, where they have remained since. For a deeper dive into bento history, check out this article by the Plenus "kome" Academy. ³

Today, bento boxes are more advanced than ever and, thanks to modern refrigeration and/or self-heating mechanisms, are able to serve more varied foods than ever. They also continue to be a popular choice for train commuters and tourists—like us!

All Aboard The Bullet Train:

Likewise, bullet trains tell a story about Japan’s evolution to the modern powerhouse it stands as today.

As Eiko Maruko Siniawer said in her book, Ten Moments That Shaped Tokyo, the 1964 Tokyo Olympics provided Japan with “an unparalleled opportunity to realize and demonstrate its post-war rebirth as a re-modernized, peaceful, and prosperous Japan,” but the Tokyo of the mid-century was a far cry from the city it became by the turn of the 21st.⁴

Physically, the city was in bad shape. The roads were rough, traffic was rampant, and the air quality was poor. The population was booming; the housing supply was not.⁵ Arguably too many things were made of wood (including outdoor trash bins which would, at best, attract pests and, at worst, help fuel the epidemic of catching and spreading fire that has forever plagued Japanese architecture).⁴ Though, to be clear, it wasn’t all bad: The country’s economy was booming and citizens were getting a taste of widespread, middle class ease for the first time, but it was decidedly not the bright screens, trash can–free streets, and clean sidewalks we associate Tokyo with today.⁶

This was no way to reintroduce Japan on the global stage, and, very practically, no way to move masses of people in, out, and throughout a metropolis hosting the Olympics. So, in 1959, ground was broken on the first bullet train (Shinkansen) line, leading to its debut just nine days before the 1964 opening ceremony.⁷ Originally, the Shinkansen went up to speeds of 130 mph (210 km/h). These days, they can reach over 200 mph (320 km/h) at their fastest and are relied on to transport hundreds of thousands of commuters daily.⁸

For the purposes of the JKLA team, the Shinkansen brought us from Kyoto to Tokyo in just over two hours, from Tokyo to Tsubame-Sanjō in just under two hours, and gave us a great excuse to grab some bento boxes and film a taste test while on the move.

Enjoy this episode of Kenji Eats Japan! And before I go: I want to extend a special thanks to Akari, Kenji’s assistant turned translator turned on-camera talent. This is her last feature film as part of this series and we’re glad you Frienjis love her as much as we do! 

— Erin, Community & Content Manager

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