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That was not what the hole in the middle was for... (Patreon)

Published:
2018-05-17 14:28:28
Imported:
2026-06
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Content

The test was a bit harsh but lots of feedback came from it. I'm happy with the results but I need to do some rework...

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Lorin Millsap

Ok. I agree nylon would be one of the better materials, but here’s the problem. Nylon is tricky to print with. You need a dry box because it’s so hydroscopic. Also the properties of the nylon change in the final part depending on the amount of moisture they have absorbed after being printed. Nylon is tough, but a spring requires consistent behavior. This is where PETG shines. It has the toughness of ABS without the brittleness of PLA. While it’s not indestructible, it does flex. It can be slightly hydroscopic, it’s not as bad as nylon. And it’s properties don’t change if it absorbs moisture after it’s printed. I’ve printed TPU before. I don’t recommend it for the springs. The reason why is that though it is very flexible, it’s not exactly elastic, though there is a lot of variation from one part to the next. Springs printed from it will dampen a lot but may not “spring” the way you want and over time they will deform. I wouldn’t rule it out, but I don’t think it’s the ideal material.

Lorin Millsap

Some pointers on PETG from someone who prints with the stuff. You can print directly on glass, but hairspray is better. Regardless getting a consistent first layer is much tougher than with PLA. If you have buildtak or equivalent that stuff works very well. Also blue painters tape works very well. I also recommend a genuine E3d hardened steel nozzle as PETG tends to stick to the brass ones.

Kamil Sopko
>>12388747

PETG can break glass/ultrabase and other surfaces if you don't use any disposable layer between a print and the bed. I learn it the hard way, two Ulrabase beds and one mirror destroyed by PETG ;(