Tutorial - KH3 Rikus jacket/gloves (Patreon)

This tutorial was meant to come out on Sunday! Sorry for the delay but this is the last step to cosplay Riku!!!

 THINGS YOU WILL NEED

• Fabric, in Black, Grey, plaid and yellow! I will list my fabric choices below in the first step!
• Buttons, I used these gold ones for my cosplay! Though they're also availble at Jo Annes too! I painted them silver though so the buttons would match my Sora cosplay!
• Zipper, open one preferred of course! You want THIS giant one! 
• Sewing machine of course
• Hand sewing needle and LOTS of thread in matching colors to your fabric
• sewing pin needles
• Base hoodie to cut up in your size! Not mandatory but HIGHLY recommended
• Scissors! SNIP SNIP!

 ALL MY FABRIC AND MATERIALS (Asides the Zipper) I GOT FROM JO ANNES FABRICS, HOBBY LOBBY or AMAZON! 

So to make Riku I actually grabbed the patterns I had for Soras KH3 jacket I made a few months back! They work perfectly for this, thankfully Nomura was nice this time around and the designs are similar to each other! To get these patterns I cut up a cheap fleece hoodie that fit me well.

PATTERNS

FABRIC CHOICES

I ended up going with Yaya Hans black lycra stretch for the base of the jacket, Rikus jacket has a slight shine to it that I felt cotton or any other fabric would not work personally so I opted for a lycra, its a blessing and a curse. For one, it doesn't fray but it is stretchy so you need to have a lining to this if you want it to look nice. I ended up with 4 yards of this but you can probably get away with three.

I had to go to Hobby Lobby to find the right plaid fabric, I found the PERFECT one there, bless. I bought two yards of this.

As for the yellow and gray fabrics I just used a simple kona cotton you can get from Jo Annes! Only one yard for each of these though you may want to go for two yards for the gray I BARELY had enough.

The black fabric I used for the lining was a basic cotton as well, I got 4 yards of this!

MAKE THE THING

HEADS UP! I will be referring to my Sora jacket tutorial A LOT in this because its base is VERY similar with some alterations.

After cutting out all my patterns one of the first thing I did was make ALL my bias, you are going to need SO MUCH BIAS for this (bias is the the little border of fabric that surrounds the main parts of the fabric!) It is ridiculous how much you need. So what I did was cut out a SUPER long rectangle piece out of my four yards of fabric, folded it into each other and sewed it down all the way to the end. The excess fabric you see here I trimmed off and TA DAH! You have some extra long bias to work with for the rest of your cosplay.

Time to sew down some of that bias!! Riku has these detail lines across his hoodie (similar to Soras!) and in order to get a similar look I used my bias we made and sewn them along the spots shown below!

WAIT! For this bias right below, you first want to sew on one half of your zipper to it! Rikus jacket has this weird motorcycle like design to it for the zipper placement and you want to sew that on first THEN sew the bias down to the jacket to achieve this look!

The lapel was the next step I worked on! Cut out the lapel pattern from your grey fabric and ALSO cut it out from your base black fabric, you will need to line your lapel for this part so that it is sturdy enough to stay up when you wear it. then take some of your bias from earlier and line the edges of it, sew it down to the sides of your hoodie pattern and you are done! For the lapel on the right though you want to sew on your zipper to the side of your jacket and up the lapel BEFORE adding your lining since this zipper goes around the coats bottom and lapel.

The hood part of the hoodie is made the EXACT same way as my Sora one, I highly suggest reading through my Sora tutorial and then come back to this one! Pretty much its just cut out the grey lining fabric, the base black, and sew em together, rather simple!

For the bottom plaid section all I did was cut out TWO layers of the fabric into a long rectangle shape and then sewn down my bias onto the edges!

The sleeves are a little different from Soras, just for the fact that the seam of the sleeve is WAY higher than Soras. Make sure you leave room for that, its an odd shape tbh, the top is so long but the sleeve it self is rather short. I decided to top stitch the yellow fabric onto the sleeve to give it more dimension. I also went ahead and lined the sleeve with my black cotton fabric as well.

LINE EVERYTHING NOW! Lining is rather simple, the way I do it is basically you are recutting ALL your patterns but with your lining fabric, make sure you leave about an inch or more of extra room when cutting out your lining fabric.

It will look something like this! For the parts of the lining that will be seen (like by the zipper/inner edge of the hoodie) I folded them inward and sewn them down along the hem lines from where we placed our bias earlier! For the rest I left it as is, no folding inward and just sewed the pieces together via a top stitch. YOU NEED TO LINE THIS FABRIC if you want your hoodie to have weight/look right.

Once the top portions were lined I then simply sewed the pieces together! With those done I was then able to stitch down the plaid rectangle shape from earlier, I didn't line this part but I personally would if I were you, I will probably go back and line it myself.

Now just go ahead an sew everything together EXCEPT THE HOOD, wait on that. The hoodie is a little tricky.

You can sew down the BLACK part of the fabric to your base hoodie but  DO NOT sew down the GREY ONE! You will need to hand stitch this on to get the lining to look right.  You wanna hand sew through the top fabric, grabbing the base jacket fabric with your needle and coming out from it and doing that all along the hood till it is all stitched up! I have more photos of this process with my Sora hoodie! 

Now you hoodie should be looking PRETTY good right now! Last step needed is the pockets that go on his side, I used the same method I did for the pockets for Rikus pants for this! (didn't take a photo of this part, sorry!)  To make the pockets that go along the sides of his jacket I cut out two squares of fabric and sewed them together, then cut out a smaller (rectangleish) square pocket for the flap.  (Photos are from my Riku pants tutorial but just do the same thing with your base jacket fabric!)

Then just top stitch them down to your hoodie! And with that the hoodie should be done! ASIDES the buttons, for the buttons all you are doing is hand sewing them down EVERYWHERE they go, this was my very last step. The buttons were originally gold but I pained them silver, I wanted the buttons to be the same brand my sora ones!

GLOVES

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

• Base fabric you used for the jacket
• a pleather/textured black fabric, I had some old scraps lying around I used for this but you can find tons of this stuff at Jo Annes!

For this gloves all I did was trace out my hand and leave space for my fingers! It is best to use a stretch fabric for this step, just because the fabric will cling to you better and overall will just be easier to sew.

The sleeve part that goes up his arm was made by cutting out TWO large funnel shaped pieces of fabric and then top stitching down the pleather textured fabric to the top! To get the ribbed design in the middle I folded the middle piece of fabric inward and top stitched it down. Then all you need to do is sew your glove pieces together and the sleeve ones as well and you are done! ASIDES the buttons again lol, just hand sew those bad boys down to the back of the sleeve!

As always, I know I am not the best at making these tutorials, I have so much to learn on how to teach properly but I do hope this helped you in ANY way at all.