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Another nice addition to your decor!!! Thanks to Chris who submit the idea a few days ago! I loved the idea so much that i ran to the store the next morning to find a clock mechanism and start working on a series of clocks.

This one is the first one, and i really love all how it turned out!

Two versions are included; Wall mount and desktop version.

Inside the folders, you will find instructions (visual and written instructions) but i will copy them here too.

Files are in the dropbox under "HOME - MID CENTURY MODERN CLOCK"

Instructions (remember, you have a copy of those in the folder):

PARTS:

-ALL PARTS ARE 100% SUPPORT FREE.

-ALL PARTS ARE PLACED IN THE RIGHT ORIENTATION FOR PRINTING

-TWO VERSIONS ARE INCLUDED: WALL MOUNT AND DESKTOP VERSION

CHOOSE THE VERSION YOU PREFER. THE ONLY DIFFERENCES ARE THE

THICKNESS OF THE BODY AND ONE DOESNT HAVE THE LEGS. THEY

BOTH USE THE SAME INNER PARTS.

-LARGE PARTS LIKE THE BODY AND THE MECHANISM PLATE CAN BE

PRINTED WITH A 0.3mm LAYER HEIGHT.

-USE AT LEAST 3 WALLS (PERIMETERS) ON THE BODY OF THE CLOCK.

-FOR SMALL PARTS, I RECOMMEND A 0.2mm LAYER HEIGHT

-A FILE CALLED “TEXTURE TEST” IS INCLUDED. THIS FILE IS TO TEST THE FACEPLATE’S TEXTURE WITH DIFFERENT COLORS AND TO SEE IF EVERYTHING PRINTS RIGHT.

TWO TYPES OF HANDS ARE INCLUDED: ROUNDED AND ARROW TYPE.

THOSE FILES ARE ONLY IN CASE YOU DON’T WANNA USE THE INCLUDED HANDS WITH YOUR MECHANISM. YOU MAY NEED TO SCALE THEM A BIT DEPENDING OF YOUR MECHANISM. SCALE THEM BY INCREMENT OF 1% IF THEY DON’T FIT, AND MAKE SOME TEST.

SECOND HAND IS TOO SMALL TOO BE PRINTED, SO YOU’LL NEED TO

USE THE ONE INCLUDED WITH THE MECHANISM IF YOU WANT ONE.

YOU WILL NOTICE A FILE CALLED “END CAP”. THIS IS REQUIRED ONLY IF YOU DON’T PUT THE SECOND HAND. IF YOU WANT A CLOCK WITH HOURS AND MINUTES HANDS ONLY, PUT THIS CAP ON THE SMALL ROUND NUT OF THE MECHANISM TO HAVE A CLEAN, NICE FINISHED LOOK. AGAIN, YOU MAY NEED TO SCALE IT UP OR DOWN A BIT TO MAKE IT FIT.

FINALLY, A FILE CALLED “SHIM” IS INCLUDED. YOU MAY NEED THIS SHIM TO PREVENT THE SHAFT FROM PROTRUDING TOO MUCH ON THE OTHER SIDE. YOU HAVE THREE (1mm, 2mm AND 3mm) SHIMS TO HELP YOU FIT YOUR MECHANISM.

FOR THE CLOCK’S FACEPLATE AND THE DIFFERENT COLORS:

THE BEAUTY OF THIS DESIGN IS IN THE FACEPLATE ITSELF. HORIZONTAL LINES AND VERTICAL LINES ARE NOT ON THE SAME LAYER, SO YOU CAN PRINT THEM IN DIFFERENT COLORS TO OBTAIN DIFFERENT EFFECTS. FROM PLAIN TO MULTICOLOR, THEY ARE ALL NICE AND ITS FUN TO EXPERIMENT WITH DIFFERENT COMBINATIONS OF COLORS.

TO WORK PERFECTLY, THE FACE SHOULD BE PRINTED WITH A 0.2mm LAYER HEIGHT AND A 0.45 MAXIMUM EXTRUSION WIDTH.

A 3mf FILE IS ALSO INCLUDED FOR THE FACE, AND YOU ALSO HAVE A VISUAL REFERENCE IN THE INSTRUCTIONS FOLDER.

THE 3mf FILE IS READY WITH PREDEFINED COLORS AT THE CORRECT LAYERS. YOUCAN USE ANY COLOR YOU WANT, ITS SIMPLY TO HELP YOU DEFINE WHICH LAYERS ARE THE GOOD ONES.

FINALLY, IN THE PICTURES YOU HAVE SOME EXAMPLES OF THE DIFFERENT COMBINATIONS I HAVE USED FOR MY FACEPLATES, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND COLORS.

HARDWARE:

YOU WILL NEED (4x) M3x6mm SCREWS. (6-32UNC SCREWS WILL WORK TOO)

CLOCK MECHANISM:

YOU WILL NEED ONE WITH A 22mm SHAFT LIKE THIS ONE:

https://www.amazon.ca/Hicdaw-Mechanisms-Replacement-Mechanism-Different/dp/B085FTX3G3/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=CLOCK+MECHANISM&qid=1677118854&sr=8-8

THE LINK IS SIMPLY FOR REFERENCE, YOU CAN FIND SIMILAR MECHANISM FOR A CHEAPER PRICE AND CLOSER TO YOU PROBABLY.

FOR THE ASSEMBLY, REFER TO THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE EXPLODED VIEWS IN THE “INSTRUCTION” FOLDER.

If you have any questions, send me a message!!! Have fun!

Files

Comments

Chris West

You did an awesome job here! Way to go. I have many more clock ideas. Can’t wait to see what else you do.

sNp

Wow this looks awesome

PA1 MAKER

Thank you Chris! 😊 I found a lot of ideas too browsing the web! I think its gonna be a nice collection of stls with a lot of potential!

Adam Jones

Great idea and another great series for everyone to enjoy!! Thanks!!

Keith Manning

do you think a 20mm shaft for the mechanism will work?

PA1 MAKER

Probably, cause my 22mm shaft needs a 3mm shim to be flush with the face. So technically its like a 19mm shaft. So in this case, i would say a 20mm shaft would be ok.

Jake Ezzo

I'd really like a tutorial on how to do the color changes effectively; I just have had 0 success. :/

PA1 MAKER

I will send you a message Jake. :)

Darknynja

Has anyone else had issues loading the 3mf file into bambu studio? Usually when I open a 3mf file it comes in with pre-chosen colors that can be changed. But in this case it says that since its not from Bambu Labs it can only be loaded as "geometry only" which means I would have to go in and "paint" every little color change. Anyone have a clue? Did I do something wrong? I've loaded a ton of 3mf files in the past and have never seen this before. Thanks

Mark Miller

Are you trying to load in the clock face? I just used the 2 color file and it already has the filament change built in at the right layer height. That worked just fine for me. If I try to use the .3mf I have the same problem as you.

Darknynja

Are you using Bambu studio or Orca? If I load into Prusa slicer it shows the changes but I need to be able to load it into Orca and see the color changes. If your not familiar with those other slicers it may be hard for me to explain.

Alberto

Oh, I went too quick buying clock mechanism, I note now that the clock doesn´t fit in my 180x180 A1 mini :) If possible, can you make a version that fits A1 mini (or Prusa Mini)? Thank you very much again! :)