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Ebike 4.0! (Patreon)

Published:
2018-07-17 07:40:58
Imported:
2026-06
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Content

The V3 electronics have been reliable for over 400 miles, so it's time to upgrade the bike and drive system!  This will be a long term project as I still need to experiment with CNC cutting aluminium and a few parts I've ordered have ended up on the slow boat from China.

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Comments

Anonymous

Hey, interesting project :) I'm really interested in seeing the design process behind your work. How viable it would be for you time wise? Maybe you can run a poll to see if there's interest for it?

Riley

I've been considering making my own electric bike as well, but I think I am going to go with a different approach. I am planning on going with a direct drive system for my back wheel, where I will have a ratcheting system in the drive shaft so when coasting the motor doesn't have to be running. I also have found a pretty strong 5kw continuous power motor that I am planning to use, although I will have to use my ESC's current limiter to make the bike street legal (when I want it to be). Can't wait to see how your design comes along however!

Darcy Snell

Looks great! I love your style of engineering 😊 can't wait to show you my own 3D electric bike project (it's nearly done!) its heavily inspired by your design but I have added my own twist too 😉 keep up the great work!

David Foster

I really like your take on electric bikes. One of the things that limits me at the moment is the size of my print bed. I think the first version of your wheel sprocket would probably fit on my printer, but I don't think you published the files for that one. I've worked out a way to fit the last version onto my printer (but haven't it yet), by printing the centre as one piece. If all the power is being delivered through the sprocket spokes to the wheel hub, I figure that a join between the spokes and the hub would be problematic. So, I'd be interested in your opinion about whether most of the power is being transferred by the zip ties to wheel-spokes connection, or via the centre connection to the hub. Sorry for the long post. I'm new to 3D printing, Im not an engineer (I'm a Counselling student!), and so I don't have the skills to create joins or adjust the number of teeth. interested to see what others on here are doing with their electric bike projects as well.

Anonymous

One thing i have learned: Never use cheap cutters. I have a stepcraft 600 and at first i used cheap cutters from china and ebay (guess also china). They had high wear and caused vibrations which caused a quite bad finish. Quality ones might set you back 50€, but they are totaly worth it. For cooling aluminium when cutting, if needed at all, is best done with deluted methylated spirits. Also a nice slow feedrate and low insertion.

U.S. Water Rockets

Cool! Your original e-bike on HaD is what turned me on to the channel. Are you planning on making your own sprockets with the CNC?

tomstanton
>>13896684

I'm going to briefly go through how I modelled the frame of the bike etc, but when I'm designing, it's hard to go through the process because I change between so many different ideas. This is already the 5th version design since starting the V4 ebike haha. Thanks

tomstanton
>>13896724

That sounds awesome! I'd be very interested to see your design if you have any photos? Thanks

tomstanton
>>13897174

Awesome! Please send me a link or photo once yours is done! I love seeing other peoples twist on ebikes rather than using a hub motors. Thanks!

tomstanton
>>13897638

Hi David, I did actually publish the first version of my ebike, but it was on thingiverse <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2191603" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2191603</a> . Because the pulley is cable tied to the spokes, very little force is transferred through the 3D printed part to the hub. The reason why it's still in contact with the hub is to make sure it is always centred on the wheel. One of my prototypes was just a ring cable tied to the spokes, which worked ok, but it would end up wobbling a lot due to slipping off centre. Thanks

tomstanton
>>13898437

Thanks for the advice! I've just spent quite a bit on new cutting bits which are supposed to be designed for aluminium. I think they're just shorter than the wood bits I use for better rigidity. Thanks!

tomstanton
>>13899366

I'm still sticking with belts and pulleys for simplicity. I've been undecided between chains and belts for a little while, but just can't figure out how to get a chain setup to fit. Because the motor sprocket will be significantly bigger than a belt pulley, the wheel sprocket needs to be roughly 520mm in diameter to achieve the same gear ratio, which is huge in comparison to the 350mm pulley I'll be building. Thanks!

Logan Vinson

Why not mess around with the idea of a mid-drive? Of course there wouldn't be any regenerative braking unless you use a fixie wheel and free-wheel crank. You have the means to make the stronger parts now.

U.S. Water Rockets
>>13899366

How about you ditch the belt/chain completely and go with a direct drive gear on the motor to a milled gear that sits against the rim?

tomstanton
>>13899366

Mainly because belts are simpler and quieter. I'm not sure how a gear could easily be mounted to the rim without welding. Even then, it would probably be very hard to get perfectly centred and achieve a precise mesh all the way round. Would also mean mounting the motor very close to the tyre unless a drive shaft is manufactured.

U.S. Water Rockets
>>13899366

Sounds reasonable. I hadn't considered the belt being quieter, which would be something I would agree is important.

tomstanton
>>13913089

So I'm currently contemplating a mid drive, but I'm really undecided. Part of me wants freewheel and gears, but I also want it to be simple, reliable and efficient. Main worries with a mid drive is whether the chain is up to the task (short/long term) and also whether the motor/speed controller setup will work properly with a freewheel. If I increase to full throttle quickly, the motor will spin up really fast and hit the freewheel stop when it matches the wheel RPM, which might cause a big spike in current. Guess I need to think about this for a bit longer.

David Foster

Thanks for your response Tom- that does increase my confidence in printing a centre ring (that fits my wheel) as a separate piece.

Anonymous
>>13913089

Mid-drive is said to be the best feel, and i wouldn't worry about the gears(if you upgrade the bike). The next one i'm building is not going to have pedals. If i had an unlimited budget i would go shaft from the pedals(99%efficency) och maybe belt drive(to not snap chains).

Anonymous
>>13913089

Just watched the video. You will be able to bend that fork if you want to. X) But not if you don't have a death-wish when you configure the vesc6.

Anonymous
>>13913089

Can you register it as a A1 motorcycle in the UK? Or AM if you just want to do 28mph legally.

Logan Vinson
>>13913089

Yeah, I personally would go for a street legal dirt bike with a blown engine. Then gut and replace with the necessary electronics.

Anton

If you ever don't know what to for your next project I think it would be cool to use what you learned here and convert a scooter to electric.

Anonymous
>>13896684

Thanks for the reply. The e-bike video actually does show pretty well what I wanted to see :) I know showing every detail of design and thinking process is not possible but it's good to see a bit of how you draw them in the cad software etc. to get an idea of how it's done.