(outdated) Y tensioner revisited - GT2 20T toothed idler upgrade (Patreon)

--------------Newest setup here

--------------In the 3d printing forums I've hear multiple times that toothed idler are better than the smooth counterpart, and that idea seems to hold up logically. So here are the printed parts for that upgrade. wether you have rails or wheels on Y. And the ender3 with a 4020 extrusion profile has not been forgotten, but is untested.These will work with smooth idler as well, GT2 20T smooth idler, and stock ender (the bearing that's in two parts with a side wall, similar to a thicker F295-2RS )For the hand wheel you can find different ones on printables, but here are two design I made, meant to use an M4 heat inserts, an old design I made and a new one as seen in the renders: small or largeender3v2 stock wheel will work as well.Based on whether you have a M4x16 or M5x16, or if you can only find one type of idler bore.https://amzn.to/427cEBS - 5mm Bore 20T With Toothhttps://amzn.to/48JnD70 - 4mm Bore 20T With ToothMake sure it's for 6mm belt and not 9, overall width should be about 9mm or slighly less.

The sled from ender3v2 / ender3max Neo is compatible with those Y tensionersjust know they are meant for a 4mm bore idler, so for the set part all you need is the new GT20 20 toothed. The belt will rub the extrusion, so you'll need to print the shell of the tensioner see further downAs for the printed version (revised compared to any old one posted here or on discord) you'll have options for 4 or 5mm bore toothed idler, and a matching size screw, M4x16 or M5x16 acting as the axle.will also need an longer M4 for the front hand wheel, M4x20 or possibly M4x20Get the inner sliding part:Sled - M4 idler version: sled - GT2 20T 4B - 6mm belt - M4x20 SHCS - M4x16 SHCS.stlSled - M5 idler version: sled - GT2 20T 5B - 6mm belt - M4x20 SHCS - M5x16 SHCS.stlUse sled above for 4mm wide F695-2RS (smooth bearing in two pieces) with matching bore sizeor for GT2 smooth bearing.Sled - Smooth stock bearing (similar to F695 but 5mm wide), 4mm bore: sled - smooth stock bearing - 6mm belt - M4x20 SHCS - M4x16 SHCS.stl

-------------------Get the tensioner body for your setup:

--- For printer with 40x40mm Y extrusion profile (ender3pro, 3v2, 3max, 3maxneo, etc) ---

 - No Y extension  stock replacement, front mounted with two M5: ender3v2 3maxneo - Y stock tensioner - toothed idler - front mounted.stl Slightly shifted up from stock, as the toothed idler is smaller than what comes with the ender3v2, and added bit more flare to the design.  this one will not require a belt change, if you have an ender3pro or 3max, you would need to use a screw tap to tap the lower front holes for an M5 size screw.

- With Y extension, allowing about 10mm extra forward to gain back the full printable surface when using the Apollo on linear rails. this requires a belt change if you want the extension, but can be used with stock belt, you'll only gain 2mm or so

  From mount only: ender3v2 3maxneo - Y extension - toothed idler - front mounted.stl

  Side mount (using M4 screw and t-nuts): ender3pro - Y extension - front and side mount.stl

--- For printer with 40x20mm Y extrusion profile (ender3 "v1") ---May have gone overkill but there are two M4 screws & t-nuts for the under side as well.

Model with a cutout to allow wheels to move a bit more forward: ender3 - Y extention tensioner - 4020 - wheel cut _ 2023_01_24.stlAlternate version: top is covered, not 100% sure if the bed will hit or not, it's 1.6mm above the extrusion top: ender3 - Y extention tensioner - 4020 - wheel cut - covered _ 2023_01_24.stl

Model without that cutout: soon