I get a lot of questions about how to get the best results from my files, so I decided to put everything in one place. If anything changes in the future, I'll edit the info in this thread.

Spoiler alert: It's super easy. Most of the magic is in the 3D-model, not in the print settings. In terms of settings I use the standard 0.4mm nozzle and the standard Bambu 0.12mm layer height profile. It's all pre-configured. You don't need this guide.

That said, this guide explains how I print my minis, the settings I use, and a few tricks to make your life easier and get clean, consistent results. Most of my minis are designed specifically for support-free multicolor FDM printing, but they also work great as single-color prints or even on resin printers.

Try For Free First

If you're not sure how your printer will handle my models, I recommend starting with the Free Starter Pack. You’ll get several of my most popular minis so you can test your printer and slicer settings.

It's the perfect way to check things like print quality, color transitions & scaling before committing to the full library. If your printer can handle the starter pack, it can handle the entire library.

If you like 'em, consider becoming a member!

Print Settings

All my files are pre-configured in Bambu Studio, so you actually don't need to change any settings. That said, the settings I use are:

Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm

Layer height: 0.12mm (HQ)

Seam: Nearest

Flushing Volume: 0.85

Infill: Gyroid

Supports: None

The only filament brand I use is Matte PLA from Bambu Lab. The matte finish hides layer lines really well.

When importing the file:• If it asks “Scale to mm?” → Click NO• If it asks “Import as one part?” → Click YES

Again, all Patreon files are already pre-configured, so in most cases you can just open the file and press print.

Size & Scaling

All my minis are sculpted at 40mm scale because it’s the sweet spot for clean results on a standard 0.4mm nozzle while still fitting a standard 1-inch grid. If you know what you’re doing and have a smaller nozzle, you can absolutely scale smaller:

100% Scale (40mm miniatures)Recommended nozzle: 0.4mmRecommended layer height: 0.12mm

75% Scale (32mm miniatures)66% Scale (28mm miniatures)Recommended nozzle: 0.2mmRecommended layer height: ≤ 0.08mm

Printing Multiple Minis at Once (Important!)

If you're printing multicolor minis, never print just one (unless you have a toolchanger). The color changing is what creates purge waste. So whether you print 1 mini or 20 minis the amount of purges stays the same, and the printtime only goes up marginally. In other words, by printing multiples you're greatly reducing the waste- and printtime per mini.

In short, printing multiple minis creates a much better print-to-waste ratio. Especially if you're selling prints, filling the entire plate makes a huge difference.

Changing Colors in the Slicer

⚠️ Important: Do NOT use the Paint Tool.

Instead: Use the Feature Tree / Object Tree. I design every color as separate geometry, so you can simply assign filament colors there.

Painting colors in the slicer may look fine in preview, but usually creates fuzzy edges after slicing. Using the feature tree gives much cleaner color transitions.

Different Minis on One Plate

If you're just printing for yourself, and you're not interested in creating multiple minis at the same time, you could consider printing all of your minis at once, in one color scheme. This method is a bit more risky and produces a lot of waste, but only once. Compared to printing 10 minis separately, this method will surely save you a lot of time and purge waste.

Whenever I finish a full set of minis for a certain campaign, I'll bundle minis on plates for you. I'll add a 'Bundle' tag whenever I do this, so you can find all of them in one place.

Bed Adhesion

Good bed adhesion is essential. 90% of print failures are come from bad bed adhesion.Here's my routine:

Avoid touching the plateFinger grease ruins adhesion. Use cotton gloves.

Don’t use a scraperFlex the build plate instead.

Keep the plate cleanWipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) after every print.

That's all you need. If nothing seems to work, wash your plate thoroughly with dish soap and water. After that you can go back to just wiping with IPA.

For top-heavy prints like the Goblins you can also: Add a brim and rotate the model 90° to brace against the Y-axis movement. If all else fails, consider getting a grippier buildplate like the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack.

Skip Object (Life Saver)

If one mini fails mid-print, you don’t have to cancel the entire plate. Bambu printers have a Skip Object feature. You can simply tell the printer to ignore the failed model and keep printing the rest.

This has saved me countless prints.

Filament Storage

Good filament storage improves print quality. Remember when I said 90% of print failures are because of poor bed adhesion, well, the other 10% is because of moist filament from exposure to air. I use these cereal containers to store my filament airtight and dry.

Post-Processing (Optional)

Once the minis are printed, I usually do a quick pass with a small kitchen torch to remove any stringing. If you don't have one, I highly recommend it. They're cheap and make cleanup incredibly easy.

Most minis come straight off the plate ready to play, but this takes them from great to perfect in a few seconds.

Choosing a Printer

My minis work on most modern 3D printers. They were primarily designed for FDM printers but they'll look great in resin too.

Bambu Lab (FDM Printers)

If you're looking to buy a printer to print my miniatures, I strongly recommend Bambu Lab. Their printers are extremely reliable, easy to use, and require almost no tuning. That makes them perfect for beginners and for anyone who just wants to start printing immediately.

All Bambu printers produce the same excellent print quality, from the inexpensive A1 Mini to their high-end machines. The differences mainly come down to convenience features like:

Larger buildplates (A1)

Enclosed chambers (P2S)

Dual nozzle (X2D, for multimaterial printing)

Or Toolchangers (H2C, for wasteless printing)

Other Good Options

There are two other brands I’d consider good alternatives:

Prusa: Very reliable machines with a strong reputation.

The Snapmaker U1: An excellent new multicolor toolchanger printer that took us all by surprise. I'll talk more about the Snapmaker U1 in the Toolchanger section below.

Resin Printers

Admittedly I'm not fully up-to-date with resin printing in 2026, so I don't feel confident recommending any printers in this category. If you already own a resin printer, you can definitely print my models, easy. Just use the STL-files.

Personally, for my minis, I would only recommend using resin if you're painting them. While resin printing does produce better surface quality than FDM, it's not that big of a difference anymore. Resin printing is way more work, has a steeper learning curve, produces brittle prints and the fumes are super toxic.

Toolchangers (new!)

Toolchanging printers are becoming a big deal. Unlike AMS systems, they use multiple print heads instead of purging filament, which dramatically reduces purge waste and print time. This technology is still fairly new, but there are currently two toolchanger printers worth looking at:

The Bambu Lab H2C: Currently the best multicolor printer on the market, but also very expensive.

The Snapmaker U1: An incredible machine, especially for the price. Super fast, wasteless printing and quality comparable to Bambu printers. The downside is that it's not as plug-and-play as Bambu printers and Snapmaker still has to prove itself to be a reliable brand. The slicers are more complex and filament swaps take a bit more effort. But if you're comfortable tinkering with 3D printers, I cannot recommend this printer enough.

Snapmaker U1 Settings

If you're using a Snapmaker U1, these settings work great for my models:

Use regular OrcaSlicer, not Snapmaker’s modified version.

'Import' your 3MF-files, don't just open them.

Select the filament brand you're using (important for quality)

Pick a layer height of 0.12mm (HQ)

Make sure you have 'Arachne' turned off for my models. Under Quality > Advanced > Wall Generator> Pick 'Classic'

Thread Tolerances & Eggs

Some of my models (like the eggs) use threaded parts. Thread tolerance can vary slightly between printers. Use X-Y Contour Compensation to fix this.

For example:On my Bambu P1S the eggs close perfectly as is, meaning the art on the outside lines up perfectly when I fully twist the egg shut. On my Snapmaker U1 it didn't line up though, it seemed a little loose, so I had to adjust: X-Y Contour Compensation: +0.06

If your threads feel tight or loose, adjusting this value usually fixes it.

Final Tips

To summarize:• Use 0.12mm layers• Print multiple minis per plate• Change colors via Feature Tree• Keep your build plate clean

Follow these steps and you should get clean minis straight off the plate with no supports and no painting required. If you're having trouble, reach out in the SuperPrints Discord. We'll figure it out.

Much love, Sander