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I have fixed the hinge issue and will modify the file folders later today.

To preserve the emblem these will need to be printed right side up. Mines was printed right-side up, no supports and it come out great! Tweak your settings and you'll be fine.

A Few Things [Please read]
Some of you might've noticed that the Sabertooth and Mastodon bottom portions of the pokeballs were lacking the silver. That is due to the fact that I decided to leave it as white because the extra color would've added a significant amount of time to the print.

If you would like to have that silver you can do 1 of 2 things:

  • You can import the OBJ and have the slicer decode which colors are which. You should all have the OBJ files in the shared folders.

  • You can color the portions manually.

    The coloring takes a tremendous amount of time and for these balls I did them as a courtesy for those people who do have multi-color printing capabilities. I will continue to add the 3MF files for the pokeballs going forward but I will add the color based the amount of time I have to paint them and or if the print time itself is doable. I will always provide the OBJ in the event you would like to modify my coloring pattern.

    There's a lot on my plate and I appreciate all of you understanding. I'll do my best to keep it interesting and I'm here to give advice with print settings and such to help every one of you get the best prints possible. If you have any questions just let me know.

Comments

Jesse Carrion

so the top you printed with logo on top without any supports?

Heroic Studios

Yep. Bridging settings kick in. If youre running bambu you don't need to change it. It'll detect when it needs to bridge and do it itself. If you wanna be safe, you can always add supports