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Derek Guy is a fashion writer, creator of the Die, Workwear! blog and the man behind the ever viral @dieworkwear Twitter account.

We chat about getting dragged into Twitter fights, the class history of the business suit, and how modernity has made it harder to dress well than ever. And of course I discover his deep motivation for all the work he does.... (the insatiable need to prove he's right and everyone else is wrong).

(bit of a sneak peak at some themes of upcoming video, except I make it about God and tech obvi)

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Some Derek Guy Articles for Further Reading:

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The Suit Died, but for Good Reasons July 4 2018

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How To Develop Good Taste pt. 1 [Aug 26 2022]  

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Actually, Now Is The Best Time In Menswear [April 22 2024]

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The Fear of Fashion [May 23 2024]

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Files

A Conversation With Derek Guy

Derek Guy is a fashion writer, creator of the Die, Workwear! blog and the @dieworkwear Twitter account. We chat about getting dragged into Twitter fights, the class history of the business suit, and how modernity has made it harder to dress well than ever. And of course I discover his deep motivation for all the work he does.... (the insatiable need to prove he's right and everyone else is wrong). ____________ ____________ Some Derek Guy Articles for Further Reading: The Suit Died, but for Good Reasons July 4 2018 https://dieworkwear.com/2018/07/04/the-suit-died-but-for-good-reasons/ How To Develop Good Taste pt. 1 [Aug 26 2022] https://oxs.335.myftpupload.com/2022/08/26/how-to-develop-good-taste-pt-1/ The Fear of Fashion [May 23 2024] https://thepointmag.com/examined-life/fear-of-fashion/ Actually, Now Is The Best Time In Menswear [April 22 2024] https://www.mrporter.com/en-ca/journal/fashion/dieworkwear-now-is-the-best-time-in-menswear-style-24958772

Comments

benedict.m

who's this derek guy

Patrick James

All's I know is, as a man I only truly look distinctive when I wear the icecream pink "Patrick" nightie with two eyeballs and a smile that I got from the Dublin Liffey Valley Penney's women's nightware section

phil e the theyby

This was an extremely interesting conversation about something I’ve never meaningfully engaged with. It’s VERY interesting to hear from someone engaged with fashion who seems to have a distinct awareness of how classism operates. Also, I laughed out loud when he asked the question about CJ’s audience.

sepha

omg this one was so fun. everything was so real so I won't get into the minutae of that but the Scientific Fashion Advice vs Fashion Is A Social Language thing reminds me of this fashion youtuber I watched in...early college, I think? Her videos were so interesting from a mechanical standpoint because she would explain like, what fits achieved which silhouettes, and then she actually made outfits with all of the silhouettes, and it was like magic watching her put outfits together. But I did not agree with her philosophies at all. Actually I was a bit parasocially irritated by her. She would talk about things like "making sure the waistline wasn't lost," and "balancing the amount of skin showing," all of which were great tips for me at the time. But on the other hand, she seemed allergic to the idea of actually saying anything with her fits. For example, she would wear edgier items, but then take the edge off somehow. or she'd do something "menswear inspired" but it was like, Dior women's fashion level menswear. The outfits looked pleasing, to be sure, but I never felt aesthetically challenged or inspired by them. also I super relate to the insatiable need to prove I'm right. When I first started noticing what other people were wearing, the all-American Aeropostale/Abercrombie and fitch stuff was en vogue. But I didn't understand it at all. What (and this was my instinctual thought in MIDDLE SCHOOL because I've always been right) network of associations are you trying to invoke by wearing a logo? You desperate graspers. so I was not only on the ball with the philosophy, but I was also ahead of the game in terms of trends. I got teased for having a middle part and wearing turtlenecks. Guess what came into fashion later. Guess who doesn't look hopelessly dated in yearbook photos. ME.

Jay Oshiki

Realizing I'm not cis has made me appreciate the utility (& the conditionality!) of fashion rules in a totally new way. Like! I was SO GOOD at feminine fashion. Got compliments all the time, knew how to curate my style, etc. I had 27 years of experience learning how to navigate Girl Fashion! But this past year I've been trying to find all of these ways to opt out of femininity, and now that my sundresses are gone, I feel like a baby deer walking for the first time whenever I open my closet. The rules I learned as A Girl were so constant that it became intuitive, but now I have a new rulebook and am learning new intuitions! I'm just thinking about how Girl Fashion Rules like comparing your body to fruit and emphasizing your waistline were killing me, even tho I knew them so well. But like CJ points out, at least they were rules! At least I had some kind of compass. And like Derek Guy says towards the end, there are LOTS of compasses to choose from now. Kind of too many?? And the benefit and complicatedness of rules being relative to the community you operate within. My straight friends don't understand why I love my "I'm a grandpa, what's YOUR superpower?" thrift store t-shirt, but it's always a hit with my queer friends.

Robert Lasica

This convo had me go back and relisten to Articles of interest, and Derek guy is featured on the first ep I listened to, American Ivy Chapter 1. Very good series.

Puzzled Potter

This was an incredible listen! I've gone through waves of varying level of interest in fashion, but I've never felt that I was using my wardrobe to express myself. I was probably the guy who would get kicked out of an interview in SF for wearing a suit. Hearing Derek's description of dress as social language was illuminating. You asked great questions and got great answers. I'm so glad I tuned in for this one.

d

I've had a lifelong preoccupation with clothing and art where the two were very intertwined. 6 years ago I started working on my wardrobe with the help of a sewing machine instead of hot glue and paint around the same time that I realized that my approach to being an artist was unsustainable and harmful to my physical wellbeing. This happened notably, right after I hosted a community workshop about modifying ones visual expression to convey a more beautiful and meaningful expression which accompanied an exhibit of Todd Oldham fashion called "Queer Threads" at a local museum and just before traveling to NYC and happening upon the "Clothing: is Fashion Modern?" exhibit at the MoMA. I believe I've been healing from the death instinct since then, though I've never stopped creating altogether, I slowed down and switched gears. I know I'm a freak and I look like one. Many of my garments and accessories have been made to function and fit my working body comfortably- by me. I've fussed over the materials and fit out of sight in order to read unfussy and more masculine- even if I put on some lipstick in the car without looking in the mirror (which is fun and feels masc but looks femme). I always think that I want to get rid of my machines and my preoccupation with my appearance- but its the inherent entropy of the wardrobe and its necessary maintenance that draws me back in. Sometimes I try to codify my values around clothing, but the seasons and gigs change too often for my thoughts to beat my hands to the finish line and solidify. Lately the satisfaction I am getting from my clothes makes me wish I lived somewhere where it's ok to look stylish, instead of this place where I am faced with other's astonishment and or confusion regularly. I am too poor to move to such a place though, and yet put together enough to fool people into thinking I have a college degree and running water.... and to socialize with those more elite. Must stop working on clothes and get better at making music to make my life make more sense....