Home Creators Posts Import Register Favorites Logout
haven't archived this post yet. have a subscription? use the importer!

Content

Reference garment: This random jacket that I saw in a show. I'm particularly interested in the big collar.

Bodice and sleeve: Myoungok "Classic-fit Jacket Foundation" (p290).

Collar: Loosely based on ESMOD "Collar with banana inset" (p336). However, it is actually a shaped convertible collar with stand but with larger than normal collar.

Not recorded: Pocket and other small details. Topstitches and puckering. Some small adjustments. After I change the fabric, the front does not drape properly, so I sew a hidden piece to the front hem to drag down the fabric.

Fabric: Woven. I use polyester taffeta.

Note:

- I use the 'slash as spread' technique to shape the collar using Clo fullness-point tool. It is actually faster to use the fullness-line tool to shape the collar because you don't have to draw the slash lines. The fullness tools are not available in MD but MD user can do it too, just watch some real-life videos about the technique and you will definitely know what to do.

- You can skip the back-neck dart, back yoke and sleeve center-seam. These features do not affect the shape of the garment. I include them because the reference garment have them.

Sketchfab preview.

Download link for 3D files (expire after a month).

Download link for basic blocks. There are several blocks related to this garment. The classic-fit block is made my enlarging slim-fit blocks.

"Thomas - Myoungok - Slim-Fit Torso Sloper 240523"

"Thomas - Myoungok - Classic-Fit Torso Sloper 240523"

"Thomas - Myoungok - Classic-Fit Jacket Foundation 240523"

"Thomas - Myoungok - Classic-Fit Jacket Foundation 240523 with neck dart"

Files

Previews only

Drafting Men Casual Jacket, Clo, Marvelous Designer

THIS IS NOT A TUTORIAL. Recording of initial basic draft only. Turn on caption or check transcript to see my notes. Files available for purchase. Cgtrader: Sketchfab: Patreon shop: Commentary: 00:00 preview 00:09 basic torso draft 09:44 tracing and fitting the torso 13:40 enlargement for jacket 16:21 inserting back-shoulder-dart 18:40 sleeve draft 25:21 tracing and fitting the sleeve 30:45 back yoke 31:45 collar 45:07 sleeve cuff

Comments

No comments found for this post.