Style3D Hakama (Patreon)

Shirt (Kendogi): Dobson. Chapter 5 Hippari and jimbei

Hakama: I cannot find any published English textbook about how to draft the hakama. My instruction is the result from reading the first few pages of internet search result, including pattern images and YouTube videos. Many value givens are just my own preferences and from test fit result.

I faked the waist straps because it is very difficult to tie anything in 3D.

The most difficult part is the pleats. An authentic hakama has six pleats on the front, but only five pleats are visible because one is hidden behind the other. But don’t quote me on that.

The back hakama pattern is constructed basically the same as the front, except the final width is reduced because it only has one pleat per side. I have seen back pattern with two pleat per side, but only one is visible because the two pleats are stacked forming a double box pleat. I also reduce the length of the back-waistline a bit so that the back-plate (koshi-ita) is not too wide.

In the recording, I construct the pleats by layering pieces of fabric, then merging it. Alternatively, you may find it a lot easier to start with the finalized pattern, then fold it afterward. Whatever way you choose it is important to understand the pleats.

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Front pleat visualization:

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How I place the front pleats:

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Draft for the shirt (kendogi):

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Finalized sewing pattern for the shirt (kendogi), adjusted to fit my manikin.

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Draft for the hakama:

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Final sewing pattern for the hakama, adjusted to fit my manikin:

My concern now is I have to sew many layers of fabric when attaching the waist strap. At the section where the two pleats overlap, I even have to sew 9 layers of fabric. My toile fabric is very thin but I'm not sure it is possible. I wonder if there is a better way to do it. My Patreon subscribers can look forward for the toile result next week.

I have been contemplating to buy this pattern just to read the sewing instruction but decide not to because they ship from far away. There is a downloadable PDF version but I'm not sure it has the sewing instructions. Maybe I will buy them next time I make a hakama.

Fab preview.

Download link for 3D files (expire after two months).

Seamly2D files available in basic block folder. The folder name is "Baron - Hakama and Kendogi 241109"