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Before we start...

We were all pretty bummed when we learned that the Anbernic RG552 would ship with 2.4GHz WiFi only, and even more when we learned that Bluetooth was off the table.

I personally felt this the most as I use Bluetooth gamepads with my HDMI-capable handhelds a LOT.

And given how the Beta #9+ builds support a ton of USB WiFi & BT devices, I figured I'd show you all how to PERMANENTLY add WiFi 5GHz and BT support to your RG552!

A warning to beginners...

Doing this modification requires opening your device!

All instructions shown here expect you to at least know what a soldering iron is.

If these instructions frighten you, then this modification might not be for you.

There's a lot to gain, but a slip with a soldering iron can have permanent consequences, please proceed with caution.

Removing the backplate

The backplate is held in place by 4 screws, which are easily removed with the right screwdriver bit.

With the screws removed, use a guitar-pick or another plastic prying tool to unclip the back.

After the backplate has been unclipped, you should be able to flip it over to he left revealing the battery plug & cable.

Which you will now carefully unplug.

The backplate will be out of the game for a while now, so put it somewhere safe for the time being, you will need the desk-space.

Desoldering the RTL8188FU WiFi module

Moving slightly downwards and right from the battery plug you will find the pre-installed RTL8188FU 2.4GHz WiFi module.

Unplug the RF antenna first.

Now for the rough part that will scare most newcomers away... you will need to remove the old RTL8188FU chip from the PCB, which means you will have to unsolder the USB GND, Data+, Data-, VCC and Antenna + Antenna Ground pins before (carefully) removing the chip from the board.

Once you are done, clean the area and tin the pads to make the follow-up soldering easier.

When all is said and done, it should look something like this:

Getting ourselves a replacement RTL8821CU module

For this upgrade I will be using this RTL8821CU USB dongle as a base (because of its size & support for 3.3V operating voltage).

You can use another Realtek-based USB 2.0 dongle if you'd like, but make sure it will fit inside the RG552 interior and run off 3.3V, because that's all the internal USB pads give us.

Truth be told this more or less limits us to the RTL8821CU or the RTL8812CU as these are the only Realtek USB 2.0 devices I know that offer 2.4GHz, 5GHz and BT in one while still fitting the 3.3V envelope.

Which means if you want things to be easy, buy the same parts I used.

De-shelling the RTL8821CU USB module

Before we can do anything else we need to remove the module from its USB shell.

Which is easy if you bought the same one I did, as the case has a visible seamline that can be pried into allowing the whole thing to just fall apart into 3 pieces, one being the module we need.

And here's a shot of the same module after its been pried open with the pins labeled accordingly.

Soldering the RTL8821CU module side up

Prepare 4 differently colored wires.

I went with red for VCC, blue for Data-, yellow for Data+ and black for GND.

These wires need to be soldered to the RTL8821CU module as shown below.

Soldering the PCB side & cable management (Version 1 - Don't do this! - Scroll down!)

Rather than describing everything in detail beforehand, let's look at the final result and work our way backwards describing the steps necessary to get there.

At this point it should be clear why I told you to color-code your cables.

All we have to do at this point is match up the GND, Data+, Data- and VCC pins of the internal USB port with those of the new RTL8821CU module.

Due to the rather hefty battery in this device we don't have a lot of clearance to work with, which means we need to keep these as flat as possible.

To make sure the wires don't go everywhere I used some cable shrink to flatten them into a bendable ribbon cable of sorts, making sure the cables run next to each other rather than on top of each other.

The replacement module is bigger than the RTL8188FU that came preinstalled, so I nestled it into the open gap between the L1/L2 shoulder and volume buttons (where it fits perfectly).

Make sure to use electrical tape where necessary to prevent shorting.

Better use too much than too little, but make sure not to cover the module's antennas!

Soldering the PCB side & cable management (Version 2 - So much simpler, so much better!)

After taking a closer look at the module once again I realized how stupid I've been!

Why not just bend the antenna a little and flatten it so it can sit flush in-between the PCB & the battery?

This simplifies the whole process a lot and has the added benefit of placing the antenna at the center of the unit's back, rather than in the left grip, allowing for better reception and less Bluetooth interference!

Reaping the benefits

Now all you have to do is plug the battery connector back in, clip the backplate back on and screw the 4 previously removed screws back in.

You're all done!

Enjoy your improved RG552, with 5GHz WiFi & Bluetooth 4.2 support!

Files

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Comments

Nigel Rayner

Did you take the board completely out away from screen underneath before taking the old Wi-Fi chip out or is it safe to hotgun with high heat gently around Wi-Fi chip whilst in frame with screen underneath

Nigel Rayner

Don’t worry all done now have wifi 2.4ghz/5ghz and Bluetooth 5.0 internally thank you for you instructions took my time very pleased

Buck Buckleyson

What would happen if instead of removing the old chip, I just doubled up on the same connectors? 😂 Can't unsolder it for the life of me. Even after trying to heat the pcb for several minutes with my cruddy iron lol

slvclw

Hey man I’m thinking about doing this will this Bluetooth / WiFi also work on the Linux kernel say for Jelos? It so it’s a perfect upgrade since the WiFi onboard is trash!

slvclw

I see you answered this it works on Jelos. I’ll order the usb WiFi bt ya listed now

slvclw

Any hope for WiFi 6 ax support. I think it would probably work

Franko Garcia

Will wifi 5.0 still work on linux?

blackseraph

That's up to the maintainers of whatever Linux distro you use. If the distro of choice contains the RTL8821CU & rtk_btusb driver then yes, the new chip will work fine there too. Out of the Linux distributions available for the RG552 I know that the latest build of JeLOS does have them, so if you use that one you should be good. Not so sure about 351elec and the others though.

Michael Snipes

Is this able to connect bluetooth earphones and you can listen to sounds that way

Marcelo Minholi

Great MOD. I'll did the same here, hoping for 351elec suport too

Michael Snipes

I wonder if you could ad a longer antenna maybe using the existing antenna???, I also was thinkn of maybe lighting up my buttons lol

Michael Snipes

Can i see bluetooth working? Like when you swipe down from notification bar can we turn it on that way

blackseraph

You could but given the speeds and latency are already pretty good on this dongle I see little need for it. If you decide to do it though you totally can. The replacement module has 4 solder points on the side opposite of the USB header which are for RF1/GND & RF2/GND. One for 2.4GHz & BT and the other for 5GHz.

takefly

Does this only work with the RTL8821CU module? Doesn't it work with other Realtek chips? For example, RTL8821AU or TP-Link UB400.

blackseraph

I've added all the Realtek USB drivers and firmwares I could find, but I only have a RTL8821CU dongle to test with. That means: Theoretically all Realtek USB devices "should" work, but I have no way to test them. People that own other Realtek devices can gladly get in touch with me for some debugging via proxy to get their favorite dongles supported.

Michael Snipes

What is that orange clear tape that is used on the adapter called?

takefly

I'm sorry to ask you various questions. Regarding the removal of the RTL8188FU module, did you use low melting point solder? Or did you use a heat gun? Please let me know if you have any tips.

blackseraph

A heat gun is easiest, but be careful not to blow other small components of the board. If you don't have one or don't know how to use one properly then a precision knife and a soldering iron will do too. Use the precision knife as a lever to lift the chip's top right corner while you use flux and solder to heat the pins on the right side. The chip will then start to lift on the right side slowly. After it did, simply heat the pins on the other side and it will come off. After that just clean up the area and tin the pads.

Michael Snipes

Hey dumb question: when i do the mod for the BT/WIFI Chip, do i need to upgrade my andriod before the mod, im still running andriod 8, havent had time yet to run upgrade. But have been keeping up with the updates and downloading as they become avail along with the gapps files

_Exeedy_

Can i still use 351elec after module replacing? i mean is in 351elec wifi working?

_Exeedy_

ok thank you

takefly

I tried to remove the board, but two lands came off. I gave up today because I don't even get solder. What should I do·· It may not be possible, but please let me know if you have a good idea.

blackseraph

If you lifted the solder pads then you are more or less out of luck and will require a lot of patience to repair the damage you've done. One way to do such a repair is by scratching off some of the fiber glass near the solder pad, unearthing part of the trace and directly soldering to that. Before you do anything like that though, please send a picture of your PCB over so I can assess the damage you've done.

Edwin

Thanks for all the hard work, quite impressive, i've done chip mods on the Wii and Xbox so no big, but the info is awesome, don't think i'll do it, i got a nice set of earbuds and 2.4 is fine for most of what i do, still, thanks much

blackseraph

Bluetooth headset users benefit the most from this TBH. Low latency APT-X output is awesome to have.

Edwin

which is why it's awesome, but I'm old school, i had an original pong and atari 2600, most of what i play is pretty old school so no mmo or anything like that, maybe after i get my steamdeck in july i'll move into the 21st century .

Yoan Herrera

On the Soldering the PCB side & cable management (Version 2 ) looks like the chip is mounted upside down - at least pinout wise. Does it still works like that or is that the wrong photo? I'm about to do this mod and I don't want to have to do it twice and mess up the board in the process. Can you clarify?

Martin Gallardo

What a great mod, i've change the wifi module with exactly the same usb module and it works amazing... now PSPlay runs very smooth and Bluetooth has a little delay but is already better than before. Thanks for your work!

Simon W. Jackson

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! :D Lack of 5ghz was the ONLY thing holding me back from getting this device.

Michael Snipes

Black-Seraph: what is the app called "DeviceTest" it keeps poping up saying it closed

blackseraph

Much appreciated! I'm always happy to see people enjoy the work & mods I'm providing here.

blackseraph

I find that a lever & iron seem to do the job just fine but I agree: beginners should probably let someone else do the job.

Furaah

Did it a bit differently, https://imgur.com/a/KYSzVwH, seems to work fine so far :) (RTL8821CU chip as well, wired GND & ANT to the original antenna, I didn't remove the coax cable, just secured it with tape) I agree that the de-soldering part was a bit scary, I used an iron and had to be patient, eventually I got it (but ripped off a little of the original wifi board in the process, thankfully the mobo was intact beside minor scratches), the hot air station (which I don't have) is the proper way to do it for sure. I'm not pro and this is not perfect, but I'm happy with the final result

Anonymous

Furaah, where did you get it? Can you share the amazon link plz? I see that's it's Realtek but I can't find it anywhere. EDIT: If anyone else knows where to get a version like Furaah has please comment. I like the model Furaah used because it's a direct fit.

Steve Zore

What do I do with the antenna I took off the old wifi board?

Steve Zore

Did you use anything to make the Bluetooth and wifi antennas?

Dema

Hello! I have a problem that affects all firmwares I had tried so far (AOSP9, 11, Amber Elec). I bought my RG552 directly with an included 5 GHz WiFi adapter at Dragonbox and that works wonderfully. BUT after a few hours in standby the WiFi is dead, no networks will be found anymore. Turning WiFi on and off or turning flight mode on and off doesn't help. After a reboot, it works directly again without any problems. Hopefully you have an idea what is causing that issue. If you need any more informations or log files, please let me know.

blackseraph

Depending on what chip was soldered in this behavior could be normal. Some of the supported chips do not support S3 standby, as in their drivers do not support suspend and resume operations. The only way around this, as crude as it might sound, is to not put the device into S3 standby. On Android this can be done by registering a wakelock with an app of your choice. On Linux distros you might have to dive into the terminal to do so.

Dema

Thanks for the fast reply. I don't know which chip they used. I have to google about S3 standby and how to register this wakelock. Which app would you recommend?

blackseraph

I personally tend to just use Android Terminal Emulator, not because it's the best for the job but simply because I'm used to it. It has a menu option called Toggle Wakelock. As long as the wakelock is toggled your WiFi should continue to work.

Shawn Murali

What bit do you need to take apart the device?

MeRoMo

My rg552 arrived a couple day ago. I made the latest update of your android 11. Works great thank you. I ordered the Wifi Stick. But I have a great issue. (I want to build it in the device, but I am still testing the stick by just plugging it in the device). Sadly the Wifi connection isn't stable. It goes fast and minutes later it only makes download speed around 10 Mbps. I was so looking forward to make cloud gaming (Xbox Pass). But that does not work. It crashes all the time. Will the connection will be better it I soldering it in the device? Update: I saw that the Anbernic even get kicked out the Fritzbox 6660 Cable every couple minutes. Will I have a cloud gaming experince if i downgrade to Android 9? Or what sshould I do?