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Sneak-Peek: Low-Angle Mitre Plane (Patreon)

Published:
2018-03-18 22:42:38
Imported:
2026-06

Content

So, my prototype shooting plane is coming along pretty well.  I've got the angle and basic construction worked out. I made a new kind of lever-cap by laminating aluminum and walnut together and I assembled the whole thing in the Krenov style. Here's a picture: 

In this shot, the plane is almost done and I'm just fitting the cross-pin. I've cut chamfers on the corners to make it easier to hold and I've left the sides straight and square so it rides on the shooting-board with good registration. 

How does it work? Not bad.

It makes a nice low-angle smoothing/jack plane and it makes me think that we could build a good low-angle plane at home without breaking the bank on a premium plane. 

On the shooting board, it's okay. It does a decent job, but can't compete with my Stanley 4 1/2. I think the problem is mass. The red oak body just doesn't have the heft to power through the cut like a nice iron plane can. 

But this is all okay. This plane is just the prototype and it's let me work out the form and find the weak points. I think the final plane will be really great. 

That one won't have any wood in it at all. Care to speculate on what I'll use instead? 


Comments

Barbara Schulz

Looks really good as it is. I’m wondering on mine about the weight issue. I think I will buy some slugs of lead and drill out a plug, some space and deposit the lead. As to what you will use, I’m thinking you created your prototype and you will use it to make a plaster impression. After the plaster impression you will make a wax reproduction. You will pack the wax reproduction in very fine aquarium sand and smelt your own iron and pour it into the wax reproduction space. Then you will grind and polish the plane, insert the blade and frog and have a very heavy plane for your shooting board. That’s the only thing I can imagine you would do, because whatever you do it won’t be an anemic attempt. :)

Rex Krueger

You're too kind! I will not be melting my own iron, although I hear bronze is doable at home...Anyway, if you're making a smoothing plane, then light weight is fine. No need for it to be super-heavy. If you're going to do a miter plane like this one, then weight seems to matter a lot. Lead weights might be a perfect and easy solution. Very clever.

Barbara Schulz

I have a #4 smoothing plane. My interest here is the miter plane, because when I used to use a shooting board, it was difficult for me push and press the plane. There was a lot of chatter. When I make my shooting board I will make a channel with an opposing ridge on the right to keep the plane on track as it slides through the cut. I have designed in my head a means to distribute at least 5 lbs of lead in the body of the plane with four 1 lb lead ingots inserted into drilled holes and packed with lead shot in the spaces surrounding the ingots. I am using Paduak for the body of the plane, which feels pretty heavy by itself, a brass rod, and the 3/16 inch tool iron. I’m not sure how I will construct the frog, I have to wait for your video. At this point, I think the plane will be pretty heavy. I may lay a sheet of HMWP in the channel, and line the channel walls with it, so the plane will slide as effortlessly as possible. I can push better than I can press or lift, so this makes sense to me for this application. I want to use hand tools as much as possible, but not being physically strong I have to construct things that will work to my advantage.

Rex Krueger
>>10911590

Barbara: I totally see what you're saying there. I'm not totally happy with the performance of my shooting planes either. It is possible that you're taking too heavy of a cut. Shooting cuts must be very light; the finest your plane is capable of. I'm constructing mine to be heavy, but only about 2 pounds. I think more than this will be tiring to use, especially if you feel you're not physically strong. I would start with the basic plane and then just add weight slowly as needed. Just my 2 cents.