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These are the original faces and symbols us old people used to send each other at the dawn of the texting age, when # meant 'pound' and the dinosaurs roamed the earth.. These little faces bring back a lot of nostalgia for me and I still enjoy using them today! :) Put a keychain on them and take them wherever you go!

Like most of my designs, this is a clicky design that requires a mechanical keyboard switch to make the clicky part. These models have been tested with both the Kailh Bronze and Kailh White clickers but the White clickers are much nicer in my opinion. This design should be compatible with most MX style keyboard switches, however, the two metal contacts on the bottom of the switch must be clipped off flush (or folded over) to ensure the switch seats properly in the base (this is a destructive process). The keyring hole is sized for a 7mm split ring.

This pack contains 31 unique faces and symbols 

(all caps are saved as .stl and .3mf for your convenience)

3D Printing Settings:

Layer Height: 0.2mm (recommended)

External Perimeter: 0.33mm

Scale: 100% (Everything is modeled with tight tolerances and should not need to be resized)

NOTE: Setup your print so the black (face components) print first, followed by the base color (yellow)

Stay Pawsitive! 🐾

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Comments

MicrosoftSam

I've already made an ungodly amount of these, my favorite way to print the caps is on a PEO board face down, mine all have a holographic glass top to them, looks amazing!

Pawpular Prints

I'm so happy you're having fun with them! I had such a good time designing them (hence possibly having a few more than necessary, but gotta make sure there is something for everyone!) That is a great idea to use the PEO board with the holographic glass! I'm sure they look fantastic! Might have to try it myself one of these days!

Printcess Pixel

Hey there, quick question if you've got a moment! :D I was curious if the caps are supposed to be flipped over in the slicer or not. I thought flipping them to print with faces on the build plate made most sense, that way as you mentioned the black can print first then the yellow, resulting in cleaner detail, but no matter what I do, my Anycubic S1 insists on printing the yellown outline, then proceeds to fill it in with black after and goes back to yellow lol. Is this possibly because I'm running the S1 using an ACE pro? Ultimately it'll take popping it off the plate to really tell how it does lol, but at a glance it looks like it did ok this way... If for some reason it doesn't, do you have any ideas on how I could get the printer to deliberately print the black first, settings in the slicer maybe? lol Sorry to be such a pain, but I sure appreciate the assistance! Thanks in advance!