Cookbook Club Recipe #3: A Trio of Tartares (Patreon)

Welcome to January, Cookbook Club members! Here's the link to the survey form once you've cooked the recipe.

One of my favorite kinds of “recipes” starts not with a plan, but with a problem. Or rather: a pleasant leftover.

Today’s dish came out of a container of rare skirt steak sitting in my fridge from a video shoot earlier this week. I didn’t eat it all (shocking, I know), and that got me thinking about one of my favorite cold preparations: steak tartare.

Now, purists might flinch at the idea of cooked steak tartare, but hear me out. When a steak is cooked very rare, chilled, and finely chopped, it actually works beautifully in this format. What really makes tartare tartare isn’t rawness. Rather, it’s the balance: tender meat paired with sharp, bright, acidic, and sometimes spicy elements that wake everything up.

In the classic version, that brightness and contrast comes from pungent minced shallots, zesty and crunchy cornichons, briny capers, fresh herbs, hot mustard, and some umami from a dash of Worcestershire sauce. (Stay tuned, a recipe for the classic version is coming to the site later this week).

So long as you get a nice balance of textures and flavors, you can go in multiple directions. Here is not one variation on steak tartare (you can make it with leftover rare steak or raw tenderloin), but three.

I urge you to choose the version that most appeals to you. Just make sure to indicate which one you made on your survey forms, and if you wind up making more than one, feel free to fill out multiple forms. Since each recipe calls for 3-4 ounces of beef, you could even hold an entire tartare tasting with a single leftover steak.

Post photos. Report back in the survey. This is very much an experiment in flavor preference, pantry reality, and how adventurous we’re all feeling this week.

Looking forward to seeing what you cook up (or, in this case, don’t cook up).

Variation 1: Beef Tartare with Chicago Hot Giardianera

This is a tartare for people who like leftovers, cold steak, and a little chaos. Instead of raw beef, we’re using very rare, cooked steak, finely chopped and dressed with oil-packed Chicago-style hot giardiniera for brightness, heat, and crunch. It’s familiar, sharp, spicy, and delicious.

What I love about this recipe:

It turns leftover steak into something that feels intentional and special

Chicago-style giardiniera does all the heavy lifting—acid, salt, heat, texture

No shopping required if you’ve already got steak and pickled things around

It’s endlessly riffable depending on what’s in your pantry

Yield: Serves 2–4 as an appetizerActive Time: 20 minutesTotal Time: 20 minutesNotes: Mix and season immediately before serving to preserve color and texture.

Ingredients

For the tartare

3-4 ounces (85-115g) cold cooked rare steak or raw steak (skirt, flank, hanger, or strip all work)

1 tablespoon finely minced shallot

1 tablesoons finely chopped parsley or celery leaves

2 talbespoons finely chopped Chicago-style hot giardiniera, oil-packed (such as J.P. Graziano, Marconi, or Vienna Beef)

Kosher salt, to taste

Pinch MSG (optional but recommended)

1–2 teaspoons (5-10ml) hot sauce (I used Marie Sharp's)

1 tablespoon (15ml) extra-virgin olive oil

For serving (optional but encouraged)

1 very fresh egg yolk

Coarse salt, for finishing

Toasted bread, crackers, or fries

Method

Prepare the beefUsing a sharp knife, thinly slice the steak into thin slices. Cut the slices into long strips, then rotate them and dice into small, even cubes. For a finer texture, lightly rock the knife over the pile. Transfer to a chilled bowl.

Mix the TartareIn a bowl, gently fold together the steak, shallot, parsley, and giardiniera.

Season aggressively.Add a pinch of kosher salt and MSG (if using), followed by the hot sauce and olive oil. Fold gently. Taste and adjust—remember that cold food needs more seasoning than warm food.

Plate.Spoon the tartare into a bowl or ring mold. If using an egg yolk, make a small well in the center and add it on top. Finish with a pinch of coarse salt.

Serve immediately.Mix the yolk in at the table if using, and eat right away with toast points or crackers.

Here's the link to the survey form once you've cooked the recipe.

Variation 2: Beef Tartare with Korean Yukhoe Seasoning

This variation takes its cues from yukhoe, the Korean dish of strips of raw beef seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, and sugar, often finished with egg yolk and crunchy elements. As with the giardiniera version, this works beautifully with very rare, cooked steak served cold, where seasoning and texture do the real work.

The goal here isn’t strict authenticity. Instead, it’s capturing the balance that makes yukhoe so compelling: savory, lightly sweet, nutty, garlicky, and rich, with just enough acidity and heat.

What I love about this recipe:

Deep umami from soy sauce and sesame oil without heaviness

Subtle sweetness that balances the savory flavors.

Feels elegant but still extremely low-effort

Yield: Serves 2–4 as an appetizerActive Time: 20 minutesTotal Time: 20 minutesNotes: Mix and season immediately before serving to preserve color and texture.

Ingredients

For the tartare

1 tablespoon (15 ml) soy sauce

1 teaspoon (5 ml) toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon (4 g) sugar or honey (adjust to taste)

2 teaspoons (10 ml) gochujang

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3–4 ounces (85–115 g) cold cooked rare steak or raw steak (skirt, flank, hanger, or strip)

1 teaspoon (5 ml) finely minced garlic

¼ cup (40 g) finely diced Asian pear or apple

¼ cup (40 g) finely diced cucumber

1 tablespoon (15 ml) finely minced scallion (white and light green parts)

1 teaspoon (3 g) toasted sesame seeds

Pinch MSG (optional)

For serving (optional but encouraged)

1 very fresh egg yolk

Method

Make the seasoning base.In a medium bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, sugar or honey, and gochujang until the gochujang is fully dissolved and the mixture is smooth and homogenous.

Prepare the beef.Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the steak against the grain. Cut the slices into long strips, then rotate and dice into small, even cubes. For a finer texture, lightly rock the knife over the pile. Add the beef to the bowl with the seasoning.

Add the aromatics and fruit.Add the garlic, diced pear or apple, diced cucumber, scallion, sesame seeds, and MSG (if using) to the bowl.

Mix gently.Using a spoon or spatula, gently fold everything together until the beef is evenly coated and the mix-ins are well distributed. Avoid overmixing to preserve texture.

Taste and adjust.Taste and adjust seasoning if needed, adding more sugar, salt, or black pepper for bite. The seasoning should be assertive, as cold foods require heavier seasoning.

Plate.Spoon the tartare into a bowl or ring mold. Make a small well in the center and carefully add the egg yolk, if using.

Serve immediately.Mix the yolk in at the table and eat right away, while cold and fresh.

Here's the link to the survey form once you've cooked the recipe.

Variation 3: Beef Tartare with Calabrian Chile, Anchovy, Lemon Zest, and Crispy Shallot Panko

This variation leans Italian in spirit: rich beef, fruity heat from Calabrian chile paste, savory depth from anchovy, and bright citrus lift from lemon zest, all finished with crunchy panko toasted in olive oil with shallot and parsley.

Like the other tartare variations in this set, this works equally well with very rare, cooked steak served cold or with high-quality raw beef. I like to sprinkle some of the breadcrumbs directly on top when serving, but leave a little bowl at the table to sprinkle as you go in order to maintain the crunchy contrast.

What I love about this recipe:

Calabrian chile brings heat and fruitiness without overwhelming the beef

Crispy panko adds contrast.

Yield: Serves 2–4 as an appetizerActive Time: 20 minutesTotal Time: 20 minutesNotes: Mix and season immediately before serving to preserve color, texture, and crunch.

Ingredients (in order of use)

For the crispy panko

1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup (15 g) panko breadcrumbs

1 teaspoon (5 ml) finely minced shallot

1 teaspoon (1 g) finely minced parsley

For the tartare

1 anchovy fillet (about 3 g), finely minced to a paste

1–2 teaspoons (5–10 ml) Calabrian chile paste (such as Tuttocalabria), to taste

Finely grated lemon zest, from ½ lemon (about ¼ teaspoon / 0.5 g)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3–4 ounces (85–115 g) cold cooked rare steak or raw steak (skirt, flank, hanger, or strip)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) finely minced shallot

1 tablespoon (15 ml) finely minced parsley

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pinch MSG (optional)

For serving (optional but encouraged)

1 very fresh egg yolk

Method

Toast the panko.Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the panko and cook, stirring frequently, until evenly golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.

Finish the crumbs.Add the shallot and parsley to the skillet and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Immediately transfer the mixture to a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Make the seasoning base.In a medium bowl, combine the anchovy, Calabrian chile paste, lemon zest, and olive oil. Mash and stir until the anchovy is fully broken down and the mixture is homogenous

Prepare the beef.Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the steak against the grain. Cut the slices into long strips, then rotate and dice into small, even cubes. For a finer texture, lightly rock the knife over the pile. Add the beef to the bowl with the seasoning base.

Season the tartare.Add the shallot, parsley, salt, pepper, and MSG (if using). Gently fold until evenly combined. Taste and adjust seasoning—the anchovy should disappear, the lemon should lift, and the heat should linger without dominating.

Plate.Spoon the tartare into a bowl or ring mold. Make a small well in the center and add the egg yolk if using.

Finish and serve.Spoon some of the crispy panko generously over the top just before serving. Serve with more panko on the side for sprinkling.

Here's the link to the survey form once you've cooked the recipe.