Pasta alla Gricia con Funghi e Shoyu

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For this variation of pasta alla gricia, browned mushrooms and a small splash of soy sauce amplify the savoriness already built into guanciale and Pecorino, deepening the dish without changing its soul. It’s not soy-forward or mushroom-heavy (though it can be if you want), and still eats like pasta alla gricia, just with the umami knob turned up.

If you want to dive deeper into the science of pasta sauce emulsions, read my article on pasta alla gricia. And if you want to see me make this recipe variation in action, check out the video here!

What I love about this recipe:

Same simple emulsion, completely different personality.

Crisp-edged mushrooms soak up rendered pork fat beautifully.

Soy sauce deepens savory flavor without taking over.

Rich, earthy, and satisfying.

Yield: Serves 2Active Time: 25 minutesTotal Time: 25 minutesNotes: You can use thick-cut bacon in place of the guanciale or pancetta. Use a high quality bronze-die extruded pasta for this recipe, such as DeCecco or Rao's.

Ingredients

Kosher salt

8 ounces (225g) rigatoni

3 ounces (85g) guanciale or pancetta, cut into lardons

6 ounces (170g) mixed mushrooms (maitake, beech, shiitake, oyster, or button mushrooms), torn or sliced into bite-sized pieces

1 teaspoon MSG (optional)

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons (10ml) soy sauce

2 ounces (55g) finely grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving

Method

Place the guanciale in a 12-inch skillet with about 2 tablespoons (30ml) water. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates and the guanciale becomes deeply browned and crisp, about 7 minutes. Once crisp, use a slotted spoon to remove the guanciale from the pan, leaving the rendered fat behind.

Bring a wide skillet or sauté pan with about 1 1/2-inches of water to a boil. Add a modest amount of salt and, if desired, a pinch of MSG. Keep the seasoning lighter than usual because the pasta water will reduce later and become more concentrated. Add the pasta and cook until about 2 minutes shy of al dente.

Meanwhile, return the pan with the rendered fat to medium-high heat until just starting to smoke. Add the mushrooms, and cook, tossing and stirring frequently, until they release their moisture and brown deeply, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and MSG (if using). Add the black pepper and cook, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Once the pasta is cooked, reserve and set aside at least 2 cups (475ml) pasta water in a separate heat-proof vessel before draining the pasta and immediately adding it to the pan with the rendered pork fat. Add 1/2 cup (120ml) reserved pasta water and the soy sauce to the pan. Cook over high heat, tossing and stirring vigorously, until the liquid reduces slightly, the pasta finishes cooking, and the mixture turns glossy and emulsified, about 2 minutes. Add more pasta water as needed to maintain a loose, creamy consistency.

Remove from heat. Add the Pecorino Romano and toss vigorously until melted and smooth. If the sauce tightens too much, loosen it with another splash of pasta water.

Fold in most of the crisped guanciale, reserving a little for topping. Taste, adjust seasoning with salt and more pepper if needed, and serve immediately, topped with the remaining guanciale, extra Pecorino, and a final crack of black pepper.

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