Asparagus and Rigatoni alla Gricia

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For this springtime variation on pasta alla gricia, I use nearly equal parts asparagus and pasta, letting the vegetable become as central to the dish as the pasta itself. I like to cut the asparagus on a sharp bias into lengths roughly the size of the rigatoni so that I can fork everything nicely. Because asparagus cooks so fast, you can cook it directly in the rendered guanciale fat along with the pasta and starchy cooking water, so that it stays bright and snappy. Finished with fresh mint and a pinch of chili flakes, it’s grassy, peppery, rich, and bright all at once.

If you want to dive deeper into the science of pasta sauce emulsions, read my article on pasta alla gricia.

What I love about this recipe:

Equal parts vegetable and pasta makes for a nice spring meal.

The asparagus fits easily into the workflow of pasta alla gricia without taking any additional time to cook.

Feels rich and bright at the same time.

Yield: Serves 2Active Time: 20 minutesTotal Time: 20 minutesNotes: Use a high quality bronze-die extruded pasta for this recipe, such as DeCecco or Rao's. Trim the woody ends from your asparagus, and peel the lower halves of thicker stalks for the best texture. Cut the spears on a sharp bias into pieces roughly the same length as the rigatoni so they mingle naturally with the pasta.

Ingredients

3 ounces (85g) guanciale or pancetta, cut into lardons

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Kosher salt and MSG (optional)

8 ounces (225g) rigatoni

8 ounces (225g) asparagus, woody ends trimmed, lower stalks peeled if thick, cut on a sharp bias into pieces roughly the length of the rigatoni

2 ounces (55g) finely grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving

1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh mint

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste

Method

Place the guanciale in a 12-inch skillet with about 2 tablespoons (30ml) water. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates and the guanciale becomes deeply browned and crisp, about 7 minutes. Once crisp, use a slotted spoon to remove the guanciale from the pan, leaving the rendered fat behind.

Add the black pepper and cook, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add a splash of water to cool the pan slightly and loosen browned bits from the bottom.

Bring a wide skillet or sauté pan with about 1 1/2-inches of water to a boil. Add a modest amount of salt and, if desired, a pinch of MSG. Keep the seasoning lighter than usual because the pasta water will reduce later and become more concentrated. Add the pasta and cook until about 2 minutes shy of al dente. Reserve and set aside at least 2 cups (475ml) pasta water in a separate heat-proof vessel before draining the pasta and immediately adding it to the pan with the rendered pork fat.

Add the cut asparagus and 1/2 cup (120ml) of the reserved pasta water. Increase heat to high and cook, tossing and stirring vigorously, until the liquid reduces slightly, the asparagus turns bright green and tender-crisp, the pasta is fully cooked, and the mixture is glossy and emulsified, about 2 minutes. Add more pasta water as needed to maintain a loose, creamy consistency.

Remove from heat. Add the Pecorino Romano and toss vigorously until melted and smooth. If the sauce tightens too much, loosen it with another splash of pasta water.

Fold in most of the crisped guanciale, the mint, and the chili flakes, reserving a little guanciale and mint for topping. Taste, adjust seasoning with salt and more pepper if needed, and serve immediately, topped with the remaining guanciale, extra Pecorino, mint, and an extra pinch of chili flakes.

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