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This guide will be an overview of how to 3D print, this will mainly focus on KB3D designed items, however this can be applied to other objects from different sources. This is a beginner guide. If you are use to 3D printing then this might not interest you, however, you may see some item specific things which might help :)

One thing I would like to note, is that this guide may not be 100% perfect for you. Please comment below your tips, so we can all help each other 😊

Below I will outline specific numbers for different slicing settings I use to print. However, you do not need to follow these, go with your instincts. The important thing is to follow some basic rules/suggestions:

*These suggests are not complete. As I think of more/ or community suggests, I will add more*

1) Think about orientation - This can be slightly hard to determine. Because there are two factors involved. The layer line and the amount of supports. To most, the best thing is to orientate the object so it generates the lease amount of support - and this is not a terrible way to decide. However, two things you should consider, the surface of your object which comes into contact with supports will likely look a bit rubbish (well it goes with mine) so if you are not planning to sand the objects (I only sand chastity cages), then aim to position the supports on areas of the object which will not be commonly seen (for example the inside section of a mask). 

Secondly is the layer direction. The weakest part of a 3D print is normally the between each layer of the print. Therefore it's best to orientate the object so the layers are helping the strength. 

Thirdly- Supports. This is significantly important for Chastity cages. Aim to have no supports touching an area which may touch the skin/body. Supports leave a rough surface. For example the chastity cage.

2) Infill - How much infill is always a question I try and decide. For nearly all prints, I think ~20% infill is good. This applies to all of the Gas mask attachment. If you think a print requires a bit of extra strength head for 30%. This all changes with the chastity cages where I do 80-90%. This is where the extra strength is needed, the last thing you want is something snapping while you wear it. Also the you don't want the lock breaking while you inside and remove the key. 

3) Layer height - When I first started out 3D printing, and I though everything should be printed at the smallest layer height as it improves 3D printing quality, however, It significantly increases the print time, it is hard for the first layer to stick and the quality pay off is not great - especially for chastity cages if you are planning to print them. Therefore ~0.2mm is great. There is a matter of getting the best height for your stepper motors, however if your printer has a profile already in Cura, use the defaults. (ender 3 V2 is better to use 1.2mm, that 1mm because then the stepper motors don't have to hover between steps)

My settings - Gas mask attachments

The great thing about the gas mask attachments are they are the same for pretty much all of the items. I am currently using these settings in Cura:

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall thickness: 0.8mm (2 walls)

Infill: 20% - Cubic

Material - 210oC (I have a steel nozzle which requires slightly higher temps.)(PLA)

Speed - 50mm/s

Retraction - Yes - Still tweaking mine however use the standard setting if not sure

Support - Yes, Normal supports, touching the build plate. Sometimes if the print is particularly complicated I might sway to tree supports - they can get harder to reach areas on touching the build plate. 45 degree angle

Buildplate adhesion - normally I use a skirt. However if there is a complicated bottom of the print and it failed, I would move to a raft. However, currently all prints on my printer I use a skirt.

My settings - Chastity cages

The chastity settings are for the cages and rings. The accessories I would follow the gas mask guide.

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall thickness: 0.8mm (2 walls)

Infill: 80% - Cubic

Material - 210oC (I have a steel nozzle which requires slightly higher temps.)(PLA)

Speed - 50mm/s

Retraction - Yes - Still tweaking mine however use the standard setting if not sure

Support - Yes, Normal supports, touching the build plate. 

Buildplate adhesion - normally I use a skirt. However if there is a complicated bottom of the print and it failed, I would move to a raft. However, currently all prints on my printer I use a skirt.

My Printer 

I have a Ender 3V2 printer. I have modified it to contain a BLTouch, A Microswiss all metal hotend, and a all metal extruder. However apart from the temperature all these settings are the same for the standard printer.

Orientations of some items

Because some items are more tricky to print, I am including some of the orientations for items I use.

Chastity - Ring

This is probably the most complicated object. Because there is this 'battle' between the strength being in the ring and the 'strength' being in the locking section. I actually position the ring at a 45o angle.

Chastity cage

As I have shown in the image above, I print the chastity cage vertically, this prevents any supports touching the inside of the cage, it would make it a pain to sand out. 

S10 eye rings

I simply print the eye rings flat, with the front of the ring face down. 

Please suggest further items you want help printing :)

Files

Comments

Jye Barber

Hi, Any advice on failed prints that seem to break on the retraction setting? I find it gets to the outside "mesh" and the retraction setting causes flattening of the filiment and fails.

KB3D

Hmm 🤔 have you tried without retraction?

Felix Krüger

Hey, Any advice on prints breaking at the curve where the glans would sit? Would the design work in a resin printer? Thanks very much… and I love your designs.

Cyph

You can definitely use a resin printer, just you'll definitely need to do a proper job curing it and then you will want to seal it with a spray or similar. The big advantage of the resin is it the amount of time finishing at the end is so small as you don't have all the sanding to do. Supports are generally easier as well, just printed a micro cage w/ spikes and after putting it through the wash station, the supports just twisted clean off and it was then into the curing station.