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STOP! Hammer time. (Patreon)

Published:
2018-11-26 17:59:03
Imported:
2026-06

Content

Enjoy, or maybe not, Part 1 of this extremely over powered meat tenderizer. 

Files

1910s Power Hammer [Restoration] (Part 1)

Stop, Hammer Time

Comments

Steve Seidel

What brand is that socket wrench? I've been admiring it. Love the swivel head.

Wilmer Schock

In the "Grapes of Wrath" when the Joads have to do roadside repair they are forced to buy second hand socket wrenches that do not have removable sockets; they had to buy the whole wrench handle combination for each size.

Dan Johnston

If you look really closely at that gloppy, volcanic looking weld on that one piece, I think you can see the faces of the souls of the damned in there. It's that bad. What a great monstrous OSHA nightmare of a machine from back in the day when men were men and often missing a finger or two. Glad to see her getting some love. As always, cool stuff, mate. Stay warm, Dan

Wilmer Schock

They had to rebabbit a bearing too.

handtoolrescue

I can't believe they ran the hammer in this condition.

Anonymous

I would assume those pads inside the wheels would be asbestos right? They looked like friction pads. Pretty much all old friction pads, Brake pads, Clutch pads, etc, were asbestos. You cant catch a break can you? If its not lead paint its asbestos. If its not asbestos what next? Fckin uranium?

handtoolrescue
>>17478639

They probably do contain some asbestos. Luckily they are covered in grease and will not be used again!

Anonymous

How did you get a hold of this thing? It's an amazing monster.

Clifton Ballad

If only you had a Tig... Unless its cast iron... Then that would kinda suck either way. I'd still try it though. That looks like stick with very little care or regard given, probably right over the grease and paint. Maybe even while it was still running Lol

handtoolrescue

It's all cast steel. I am going to be using a friend's TIG to get this all back together. There is no way I am running this unless that disaster is addressed.

Felix

Man those bearing surfaces were just in incredibly good condition. Are those original gibs at 8:30 or someone jammed that in there?

Felix

Lol that evapo-snot looks fucking disgusting hahaha. Which means it must work amazing.

Felix

22:40 Yeah just pour that shit on the table lol. That thing is probably like 90% chemicals - 10% wood by now. If it ever catches on fire it's gonna be gone in seconds

Clifton Ballad

For a cast piece, id use oxy-fuel and the good old square rod and flux. Its ugly but it holds up good. + oxyfuel is better for cast what with the massive heat input it has. Still has to be preheated and slow cooled, but it has worked for me several times when the arc processes fail. <a href="https://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/flux-filler-metals/cast_iron_welding_supplies.php" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/flux-filler-metals/cast_iron_welding_supplies.php</a>First 2 entries are along the lines of what im thinking. Just re-read the reply.... Cast iron is a bitch and needs the square rod, cast STEEL should be OK with plain old 70s6 / 7018. Maybe go with something like a 312 stainless just for extra good measure, but likely the plain steel would work. Watch the sparks from grinding, that will tell you what your up against. <a href="https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/forney-stainless-steel-welding-rod-312-16-alloy-1-8-in-1-lb" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/forney-stainless-steel-welding-rod-312-16-alloy-1-8-in-1-lb</a> easiest to find 312, dunno if you have tractor supply out that way, but the idea would be the same. Any of the "magic fix everything stainless" rods are usually close to 312.

Dennis Bishop

Why is it that after watching this video I dream of an endless supply of HTR wrenches..? I'm beginning to suspect it's cunning Canadian product placement in nearly every video! Damn you for infecting my weak American brain with wrench envy!

Delta

When is the next!