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***THIS FILE IS NO LONGER INCLUDED FREE WITH SUBSCRIPTION.Use the 50% OFF discount code if you want to purchase it.

Hey Gang,

Here it is.  The early release of my new Bearded Dragon model!  This little guy has a lot of character.  I hope you enjoy it!  I've added a new mechanic that allows a little more dynamic posing options.  I'll post a video demonstrating that shortly.  

It still uses the same two part system as the Axolotl, but I think you'll find it is less finicky to print.  You don't need any support for the body.  You will still need support for the head, but not as much.  I haven't needed to use a brim or raft for this guy, but results may vary from printer to printer.  Just in case you find yourself running into adhesion issues, I'm including an additional Body STL file that has some small custom brims added to it.  Feel free to try that out, or use the brims/rafts generated by your slicer.

I'm planning to release this model to Cults3D next week.  In the meantime, I would love to hear any feedback so that I can address any issues before I release it there.  

Happy Printing!

Matt

*Click Here to go to the Pinned "the Hub - Info and Current Download Links" post*

Updates:

- v02P(beta):  Added small blocker shapes to the head to prevent supports from going too far up into the ball joint area. 

-v03P(beta):  Redesign of the upper-arm holding mechanism is done!  This is now a friction hooking style connection instead of a press fitting one.  It will likely take a stronger effort to get the hook to seat the first few times you insert it, but once it wears in a bit, it should work smoothly.  Please redownload the file to pick up these updates.

p.s.  Thanks to Doug (ScandiPrint3D) for helping me test this new arm joint!!

- v04P(beta):  Minor update.  Widened the contact points of all the tail segments a little bit.  This should further aide bed adhesion.

-v05P(beta):  Made the Neck joint clip "pocket" wider.  It will now be easier to use a small tool of some sort to pry up the clip of the joint, so that it can be snapped into the body.-v06P(beta):  Fixed the gaps between the head and neck ball joint so that they don't slice with slightly fused spots.-v07P(beta):  Fixed a small fused spot on the front wrists.-v08P(beta): I made an adjustment to the layout of the front arms.  This will help the model fit better on smaller buildplates, when rotated diagonally.  Also, this will allow you scale it larger, to print even bigger versions of it.-v09P(beta): Made a small adjustment to the head which will allow "Tree" supports in Cura to better support the neck clips.

-v04R(release): - Lowered the neck ball joint slightly so that it has contact with the print bed. Should help with bed adhesion for that part, rather than depending on supports alone.-v05R(release): - Minor adjustment to neck ball joint, to prevent some instances where overhangs may cause some small areas to fuse in the neck

*Click Here to go to the Pinned "the Hub - Info and Current Download Links" post*

Files

Comments

Pixel Perfect Reptiles

Does anyone have any tips on getting the support pieces out of the tail sections? On this one and the Axolotl I'm not able to get the tails as flexible as they should be (and I can visibly see pieces of "tree" supports inside that I just can't get to)

matmire_makes

You shouldn’t need to generate supports on any of my designs. If there are areas that need supports, I create a presupported version of the model so that they don’t have to be generated in the slicer. If you do decide to try generated supports, make sure to set it to touching buildplate only.

Pixel Perfect Reptiles

Thank you! I'm very new to this and I was told to always use supports ;-/ I will try another build without adding them ;-)

ShealynRCP

I missed the updated files for this guy. I don't see a way to download it without paying for it. Also is there an update for the Bambu?

matmire_makes

Here's a video that shows how it is assembled (shown on the created gecko)... youtu.be/P9llZj7NBvs?si=n3DzFdPTxNXfO9nH&t=56

Jonathan

Hello, I’m having some issues with the 80% scale head staying in. Is there a way to scale up just the ball joint section or do I scale up the entire head and by how much?

matmire_makes

Hmm, that's odd. You would have to scale the whole head up. I'd think like a 1% difference to start, but I can't really tell you a specific number. I think what I would suggest is warming the base of the clip up to the point that it just starts to soften, then use a screwdriver or something similar to pry the clips slightly apart. Let it cool, then try again.

Jonathan

Thank you! I'll make another head scaled up by 1% and give that a try. I offered to replace the 80% scaled head for the lady, but she chose to buy the 100% scaled version instead, which had no issues staying on.

matmire_makes

I'd say about 65% or so. Your mileage may vary :)

Kristina Stebbins

I did 65% and I am going to say 70% based off of results!

Athena

What is the largest I can scale this up on my A1? I’d love to make a “giant” one (like as big as the bed will allow me). If there’s a way, can you let me know what settings I need to adjust besides scaling up? Thank you!

Topaz's Vinyl Designs

I'm trying to print the breaded dragon. I have my brim off but there still a brim. How do I get it off please.

matmire_makes

Hi! Sorry, I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to. Did you add a brim in the slicer? You would just have to peel that off. If you add slicer brims in the future, I suggest increasing the brim gap distance to something like 0.25mm so that they come off easier. Or are you referring to something else? Maybe the head pre-support? You can email me pics at help@matmiremakes.com if that will give me a clearer idea of what you are seeing. Cheers!

ScandiHåndverk

I was looking for something to print tonight! Perfect timing!

3D Printer Friends

i love the way the head prints. is there a way to alter the axolotl to have the same style ball joint positioning?

matmire_makes

I can take a look at it. It wouldn't be quite the same because there wouldn't be the same gullet area to pocket the clips into. Does that make sense? Unless I'm misunderstanding the aspect of the Beardie joint that you like better.

3D Printer Friends

the aspect i was speaking of is that it tucks away and comes out cleaner when printed.

matmire_makes

I'll give it a try once I finish up some tweaks on the Beardie. I think I can get the joint to lay closer to parallel with the bed. As for the tucked away part, I'll have to see how much that will change the shape of the head. It'll be interesting to try.

3D Printer Friends

Thank you. I love your work. Not trying to criticize.

matmire_makes

Not at all! Happy to make changes to improve the functionality, as long as it doesn’t create other unforeseen issues or compromise the design aesthetic too much.

ScandiHåndverk

you're welcome! the v03 joint works great and I love the hook design. Kicking off my full print of it now!

matmire_makes

Awesome! Thanks again for you help testing it!!

Scott Farrell

The MMF link downloads version 5.

matmire_makes

That's correct. At the time I posted this model I was using the P suffix for the "Patreon" early release versioning (sort of like beta versions), and once the model is released publicly it becomes v01R. "R" suffix for the "Release" version. Sorry for the confusion. Since this post, I also switched to sending out version updates as messages rather than putting them in the posts. It was cleaner and a better way of telling people what an update is as it's released.

matmire_makes

I'm going through an updating the posts a bit so hopefully it's a little clearer.