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A to Z Menus 2022 (Patreon)

Published:
2022-01-06 04:35:18
Imported:
2026-06
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Content

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWC-IgKORdDHmSXPi3bftJSOzO_3ypLA1 

I have just completed the monumental task of creating a series of 26 video tutorial using the new menus that can be found on the A7SIII, A1 and A7IV cameras. Click on the link above to access this playlist. The A7IV eBook has just been updated to integrate this new video content.

The A7IV is the featured camera for all of these videos. If you are using an A1 or A7SIII you will notice differences in some settings and page numbers. The Movie settings will be significantly different for the A1 and A7SIII cameras, e.g., the A7IV has Breathing Compensation and Focus Map features but must record 4K at high frame rates in APS-C/S35 Mode.

Note: Cameras sold in North America have an additional page when the camera is set up in the English language. This additional page is the 'Accessibility' page. As I am using a camera outside of North America you will notice this page is missing from my menus and this throws out the page numbering for the latter pages on the yellow setup tab.

Files

Previews only

Comments

Zach Blackwell

Hi Mark, I downloaded your camset for A7iv and just wondering. The Aperture Drive in AF for the Action setting is set to standard. In your Focus mode video it suggests setting it to Focus Priority. Which have you found to be the most useful, if any?

Mark Galer
>>111623685

I am currently leaving my Focus Drive to standard. Having it set to Focus Priority doesn't seem to impact the ability of the A7IV to pull focus rapidly on fast moving subjects in my experience. I generally don't alter standard settings unless I experience a benefit from selecting anon-standard setting. You could choose to override my CAMSET for Sports/Action (2) to see if this improves the number of sharp images in a sequence you are achieving. This video shows you how to modify a memory if you are wanting to change a single setting in the CAMSET - https://youtu.be/G0uS9kBZNGY

Tony Blake

Hi Mark, thanks for the quick response, but where and what is page 1 of 33? I have looked at the eBook and the camera menu. For me I would prefer AF-ON key, I think.

Tony Blake

Mark, I’m not sure how but I have managed to set it up. I now need to go and work out how I did it.

Mark Galer
>>76399898

OK, so when you highlight a Custom Key in Custom/Key Dial Settings (page 3 of the yellow Setup menu) and then you press the Center button in the Control Wheel to reassign an option you will see -/33 in the top right hand corner of the menu options from which you can reassign a function. If you go to the Red Shooting Menu > Image Quality (the menu will now ready 1/33 in the top right hand corner) and is titled Image Quality you will see that the last but one option on this page reads APS-C S35 / Full Frame. If you choose the AF-On button as your APS-C mode you will need to familiarise yourself with the crop icon that will appear in the bottom right-hand corner of the Monitor and Finder to alert you that you are now shooting in crop mode.

Tony Blake

Thank you for your patience.

Steve Caprarola

Mark, I want to capture images of the sunrise near my home. First I’m trying to decide on which lens. The two I can choose from are my G-Master 135mm or my Tamron 150-500 mm. Next I’m looking for the optimal settings with my a7IV on a tripod. Your advice would be most welcome.

Mark Galer
>>76414112

Sony’s FE 135 G Master is one of the most optically perfect lenses ever made so if your framing/composition is close to 135mm that is the lens I would choose (even if you have to crop a little in post production editing). I personally don’t shoot sunrise or sunset using a tripod unless I am using ND filters to extend the exposure. This is because the ambient light is bright enough to hand-hold the camera at ISO 100. I know it is typical to see photographers using tripods to shoot landscapes but they are often just lugging around heave metal for no gain whatsoever. I will often extend shutter speeds when photographing seascapes and will need a tripod but this is the only reason I use one. I will use the L memory that forms part of my PAL workflow (number 3 that I have registered the settings to recall via the shoot mode dial). If I do want to put the camera on a tripod I start with 3 and then change the ISO from Auto to 100 and for longer exposures I disable the SteadyShot. My landscape settings start with f/11 but when using a telephoto focal length and there is no immediate foreground there is no reason why you wouldn’t open up the aperture wider, e.g. f/4 The sun moves quickly through the frame when using a telephoto lens so shutter speeds slower than 1/15 second should be avoided (another good reason why you can hand-hold the camera). I recommend using Zebra 109+ Lower Limit to assess the optimum exposure if you are a Raw shooter.

Jay Hicks

I have the A1 and cannot get Bulb mode. I have the camera set to Shutter priority, the dial set to Single shot, and the Silent shutter turned off. I have also tried it with the Sutter type set to Mech and Auto without success. Is there anything else I need to check?

Jay Hicks
>>76534424

It just occurred to me that maybe I need to connect the remote trigger before it shows up, is that possibly correct?

Mark Hetherington

Hi I have a A7iii and the 100-400mm GM lens. I was wondering if I wanted more reach for bird photography in terms of image quality would it be better to use the 1.4TC which I have or use the ASPC Crop mode or maybe even both?

Mark Galer
>>77037796

Use APS-C mode first and then, and only then, if the subject is still very small in the frame use the 1.4x Teleconverter. Adding the teleconverter will double the ISO because you lose one stop and there is a very minor loss in fine detail compared to cropping. I keep an eye on the pixel dimensions when I am cropping and when the height goes below 2160 pixels I know I will start to compromise sharpness if the image is to be displayed on a large 4K monitor.

Steven Schonfeld

Hi Mark, Thank you for all your excellent content. I'll be traveling to Costa Rica next month and was wondering what lenses you'd recommend taking. I have an A7R3 with 100-400, 1.4 teleconverter, 16-35 GM, 24-70 GM, 70-200 G and 85 1.8. I'm assuming the 100-400 and the tele converter are musts. I know I want to do some photographing of the leaf cutter ants from a way down low position using an off the camera flash. I'd also like to know if you can use the Sony 43M off camera with TTL without another flash unit on the camera itself. Thanks, Steven

Mark Galer
>>81416506

It sounds like you have all focal lengths covered there Steven. Lens choice is often a very personal decision and in my Lens Choice video tutorial I try to offer some of the main decisions to be made, e.g., prime or zoom and what focal lengths to consider. I tried to demonstrate that even if their are gaps in focal distance, with the higher resolution sensors we have the option of cropping in camera (APS-C mode) or cropping in post. My choices will not be suitable for all photographers as I often make use of a second body. In this manner I can limit my lens choice below 100mm to just three primes, e.g., 20mm G, 35mm GM and 85mm f/1.8. I have made this choice to reduce the size and weight of carrying 16-35 and 24-70 zooms. When adding more reach I will often choose a 135 prime over my 70-200 F4 G and if weight is a real consideration I will use my 2.8/135 rather than my Sony 135mm GM. As you have pointed out the 100-400 is a must and when you still need more reach (more than can be accessed by cropping) then the 1.4x TC gets to help out. All Sony flash units need another flash or commander to fire a flash off-camera. The 43 will need another flash and must have line of site. Later model flashes ending with RM (such as the HVL-F45RM) don't need line of site. They can also be controlled via another RM flash or Sony's commander. Flashes that predate RM can be controlled by mounting the flash onto a receiver unit.

Douglas Schatz

Douglas Schatz 10:31 PM Hi Mark - I'm a new subscriber and am getting further into landscape photography. I see your point of view (NPI) - re getting low to get more foreground, but I have an A7RIV and would have to lie down or get on my knees to focus/use filters etc. if going vertical. How do you deal with that on the A7RIV? - thanks in advance - Doug

Mark Galer
>>82181773

Hi Douglas - If getting down onto the ground is no longer possible then a short lightweight tripod (such as my Leofoto Ranger or MT-03) allows you to set up the camera in your hands before placing the A7RIV, with tilt screen set to 90°, on the ground and then use a remote release to take the photo. This question would probably be more suitable for the current Q&A forum (the pinned post directly below my banner image of the Tori gates in Japan). Posting to forums that are 3-months old will go unnoticed to the other Patrons and prevent them from engaging in this conversation. Thanks Douglas.