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Hello loves -

Greetings from the belly of a metal skybird hurtling from LAX to Auckland. I just wrote a little shorter draft of this on Instagram and it inspired a longer piece of writing. I started thinking about scuttling, and Instagram only lets you write so many words. (So if you read that post, this one is much longer).

The universe moves in strange ways, as usual.

During our last few hours in Los Angeles, where we’d laid/stopped over en route to New Zealand to visit family and deliver the Dolls New Years Extravaganza, I decided to take Ash to Long Beach, to the aquarium, with Uncle Doug and Aunt Rita. But when we got there, it was sold out. Sold out? The aquarium? Okay.

Not far from the aquarium is where the RMS Queen Mary has been docked for decades. This ship has history with me.

My scottish great-grandfather, James McInnes, who grew up on the Isle of Skye, helped build this ship in the late 1920s, right before he emigrated to New York. He was a welder in Glasgow, where the Queen Mary was put together by thousands of humans.


(Building Her)

Shortly after that, my great-grandpa James left his home in Scotland forever, and boarded another massive ship bound for Ellis Island in New York City to join the children and wife he’d sent off ahead of him.

His daughter - my grandmother Christiana - met my grandfather Alfred (who’d emigrated himself from Deal, England - the tale is that he “Jumped Ship” in New York harbor and deserted the British Merchant Marine) and together, they produced my mom, Kathy.

My family makes ships and moves around on ships.


My family leaves places.

The Queen Mary crossed the ocean 1,001 times before retiring at a port in Long Beach in the late 1960s, where she became a hotel and tourist attraction.


(RMS Maiden Voyage - from Southampton, UK)

So instead of showing Ash fish, we showed him the ship that his great-great-grandfather helped build.


(Ash, hiding behind his magic wand)


(Uncle Doug n’ me)

Uncle Douglas told me that the community is in deep discussions about whether to allow the ship to stay parked here.

It’s a valuable parking spot for expensive cruise ships. The Queen Mary is a historic document. People argue.

If they moved the ship, they’d probably send her to China where she’d be salvaged and turned into other stuff - or they’d have to scuttle her.

Scuttling - the delineate sinking of a ship. It’s always fascinated me.

There’s no separate bin for throwing away large ships. Nope. They’d tow her majesty out to sea and send her to the bottom. I can see her down there, miles below the surface, sparking in the dark, rusting, rotting, breathing, decaying. The metalwork of my great-grandfather turning into a hotel for millions of fish and coral and algae and barnacles.

From wiki: Scuttling may be performed to dispose of an abandoned, old, or captured vessel; to prevent the vessel from becoming a navigation hazard; or as an act of self-destruction to prevent the ship from being captured by an enemy force (or, in the case of a vessel engaged in illegal activities, by the authorities)

Sometimes I feel like we should scuttle the whole lot. America. New York. New Zealand. Humanity. Maybe we could just toss the whole lot overboard and feed something else. We’ve had a good run.

Sometimes I want to scuttle my entire history.

Send it off to feed the fishes.

As an act of self-destruction to prevent it from being captured by an enemy force.

Now we’re sitting in a modern sky-ship headed towards Aotearoa for a few weeks (at least).

I spent over two years living in New Zealand, by accident. Was it an accident? Covid raged elsewhere; I chose to be there. Was my great-grandfather choosing to leave Scotland an accident?


(there’s James, on the right, with my great-grandmother).

When I heard the first Air New Zealand employee at the check-in desk greet me with a “Kia Ora” I nearly burst into tears; when a group of Māori folks delivered a Pōwhiri near the gate, i DID burst into tears. (There’s a little video of that here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm9TWd_Jp7D/?igshid=NTdlMDg3MTY= ….a Pōwhiri - “po-FEAR-ee” - is a Māori welcoming song/ceremony).

Aotearoa.

My community. My home, my job, my life, my place?

This I know:

Thank you for your patronage. I want to remind you that without my patrons support, I wouldn’t have been able to financially afford staying in New Zealand for those two years. It was this group that kept my afloat, and it will always be part of my story. And I don’t take that for granted, any more than I take for granted that New Zealand Immigration let me stay when so many other Americans were forced to fly home. I love you all so much. Thank you.

And thank you, Aotearoa. Your country held me safely when so many failed me, welcomed and took care of me and my son when so many other things let me down. We were so fragile. Weird immigrants.

I still can’t believe this all happened.

I still don’t know where our home is.

Maybe I never will.

We make ships.

We build them, we ride them, we scuttle them when we have to.

See you soon, Kiwis.

Kia Ora.

Xx

A



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Comments

Lisa Vollrath

My father was Superintendent of Welders at Long Beach Naval Shipyard. He was in charge of the team that put her into her permanent home there. We visited when she was in dry dock, and all painted in primer. She was an enormous grey lady to tiny little me. Years later, when I was in high school, we had our prom on the Queen Mary. One of the guys in our group said they were going to sail her out. I assured him that my father made certain she would never move a single inch ever again.

Angel Rosen

I think, especially for you, "Home" is very fluid. It's never necessarily been a building or a location in any country. Your home is a spectrum of experiences that take place all over the world, where love is offered to you and given by you, in abundance. Home can be what you bring out in people and fall into, its warmth. I think it can be feel overwhelming to belong to so many places and to also then belong to none. I think maybe trying to find out where your home is may yield you very little results. I hope you know your home is wherever you need to be at whatever stage you are in your life. You were never lost, just expanding. We love you back. Good luck, and I hope you are enriched during your visit.

Nora Czy

Beautiful storytelling. I love hearing the history and how families got together. Have a safe trip! (I hope they keep the ship where it is) Much love!

Stefan Linden

I only lived in the US for 13 months and traveling there still feels a bit like coming home. Enjoy visiting your home away from home, may it soothe your soul!

amandapalmer

Home, is where I want to be But I guess I'm already there I come home, she lifted up her wings Guess that this must be the place I can't tell one from another….

Joni

My Grandmother came to Canada as a Dutch War Bride in '44... On the Queen Mary!! The whole ship full of Dutch and French and UK "wives" (Gran had known Granddad for all of 6 weeks before they were married and he was shipped back to Canada shortly thereafter. 6 months later, she boarded the ship, THAT SHIP, to leave everything she'd known... Having survived four years of occupation and with the full wisdom of her 19 years... To cross the ocean to a man she'd known for months, and spent less than weeks with. 1 year later he was diagnosed with TB and given months... Maybe a year... They were happily married for another 48 years, two children and 4 grandchildren. **She's turning 100 years old next week!!! ** (Jan 11 if you want to send some pychic love...) Never give up. Never Surender.

Carl Setzer

If home is everywhere, can it be anywhere? When you're in one place, you miss the others. All these gaps in our hearts.

Carl Setzer

I'm glad that she found hope, joy and love in Canada. Happiest of birthday wishes to her (in just over a week). edit: Your last line brings to mind Corey Hart's "Never Surrender". A nice start to my day, methinks.

Pucci Dellanno

hey Amanda (and y'all) happy new year - let's hope it's a good one without any fear, as John and Yoko used to sing. anyway, really enjoyed the piece and the photos - only one small correction, ships are no longer scuttled, and yes there is a separate bin for old ships - there are a number of "scrapyards" where every single recyclable part of a ship is stripped off, and then the hull is cut to pieces with blowtorches for recycling the metal - all done very hazardously by men and boys in goggles on once beautiful and now polluted beaches in Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, etc... http://www.basel.int/Implementation/ShipDismantling/Endoflifeships/tabid/3868/Default.aspx

EmVT

Love this! Safe travels, full circle back to the beautiful 'little island.' Scuttle is such a great word for...letting go? sending love and hugs (((💜)))

walter ray brock

The Pōwhiri song brought tears here too, and I've never been anywhere near to Aotearoa. I can't find proper words, but trying: the openness of the welcome expressed by both the sound and the humans it is coming from. Thank you for sharing.

Angel Rosen

@ Carl, I think some people really do have a designated home and their love doesn't wander too far from it. For me, I have lived in the same house since 1998, and it's my home in the most literal and often times horrible sense. Then this community is my other home, the good kind, where love exists and someone leaves the light on. I know people who have never traveled emotionally, even if they've been other places, so they are just this one thing that doesn't feel called elsewhere. I envy them.

Kevin Darling

I can’t help but hear Split Enz’ “Six Months In A Leaky Boat” which is the first time I heard the word Aotearoa: “Aotearoa Rugged individual Glisten like a pearl At the bottom of the world The tyranny of distance Didn't stop the cavalier So why should it stop me? I'll conquer and stay free”

Lesley Mitchell

The RMS Queen Mary is still loved by many a Glaswegian, particularly those who worked in the shipbuilding industry before it was mostly lost to the city. Many would love to see her return to the city, much as the Royal Yacht Britania lives in Leith, but the likelihood of that happening is, sadly, very low indeed. (The world's oldest surviving clipper ship, City of Adelaide, lived in Glasgow for some years, until she sank in the Clyde because there was no money to fix her. She's now in Australia being refurbished.)

amandapalmer

apparently these are all options, according to uncle doug at least. we wait with bated breath!! thanks for the article - this stuff is so fascinating xxx

Lisa Jackson

Forever betwixt and between 💗 I’m a kiwi who lives in 🇬🇧 and I’m forever trying to find ways to get home, get back there, loved ones in both camps, I’ve been doing it for over 25 years now, it’s a part of me now - but I’ll AWAYS be a Welly girl 🇳🇿🌸 NZ will always be there for you Amanda, you are one of us now 💚

Hev

My grandparents and mother crossed the ocean to America on the Queen Mary. My grandad worked for Vickers, the shipbuilders, in Barrow in Furness. Small world.

Joanna Lindblad

Interesting, my ancestors were shipbuilders too in Sweden. There is a story that apparently there was a job but “we” took the money and ran. Thieves lol. Maybe why I feel such a need to be good, and do and say the right thing at all times. It’s exhausting, but I don’t have it in me to be intentionally mean. That’s a good thing. As far as home, I can relate to not knowing where it is. Ive moved around a lot throughout my entire life and no where feels like home. I guess, it’s a bit sappy, but I believe home is in the heart of the one I love. I just haven’t found them yet ;) Xxx <3 Ps,” Isle of Skye” would sound amazing in a poem or song lyric :) and lovely your son was able to see a piece of his history

Katja

I can relate. I was born and raised in a little town in Northern Finland, moved south to Tampere to study, had my first job there, then emigrated to Southampton, UK, then after 9 years to on to Cork, Ireland, then after 8 1/2 years back to Tampere. It feels like my soul has been spread around, with bits and pieces in different places. Not completely home anywhere. Even the most familiar places are slightly out of sync.

Yolande Burgin

Come Amanda, join us - the deracinated ...

Gabrielle Shearer

Safe travels, Amanda, in body and heart. My family are wanderers too. I wonder sometimes if the refugee experience gets passed along through DNA, along with other bits and bobs. I am newly aware of tending, pruning, growing roots. Feels strange and fragile. ❤️

Joni

@Carl - Even dorkier than that.. It's from Galaxy Quest... ;) (But you get bonus marks for the Can-Con.)

Dave R

What history! So awesome and I Love the photo of James and your Great Grandmother!!! My mother (born 1938) and her parents (born 1895 and 1902) took this several times back and forth to Europe. I wandered through there on a tour wondering if I had stepped where they stepped-I never met my grandfather and only knew my grandmother when she was 82 before she died. =P

amandapalmer

i had no idea until yesterday that it costs something like $10mil a year just to keep her afloat. life support. my lord.

Len Tower Jr.

I hope the Queen Mary is adopted by another city. Be a shame to see her scraped or scuttled. I toured her & the Spruce Goose (now in OR) in the late '90s when I took a week drawing class at CSULongBeach. Worth the visit in the future!!! Safe arrival & best homecoming EVAH !!! -Len

Joni

@Amanda - Right?!? If you're interested on the next webcast I'll tell you the *EPIC* story of the night they met and the subsequent shinanigans it took to get them hitched... (a then British soldier and a Dutch civilian). Hint: it involves a chance encounter on the streets of Amsterdamn on V-Day, no room at the Maple Leaf house, a Montreal Rabbi who spoke no Dutch and a Dutch Priest who spoke no English... working in out in French / Quebecois (NOT quite the same thing).

Anna McCotter

This is beautiful Amanda. I lost myself as I read. Peace and safe travels to my friend. May we all find our home some day

Chris Perley

I commented on the Facebook link, and figured I'd chime in here too. I worked on the Queen Mary from 2015 until the pandemic closed the ship. I was a tour guide and Chief Officer (an ambassadorial role). My mother was a passenger of the ship in 1963, and her parents in 1937. I have moved on from Long Beach to New Orleans, but I still am very fond of the ship and its future. The ship is in the early stages of reopening to the public. The guides were just called back within the last few weeks. She is operating limited tours, which booked up as soon as they were announced. Amanda, I love that you have a connection to the ship. Your great-grandfather helped build a masterpiece. She deserves to be saved. She is the last of her era. Her lifespan bridged the gap between the demise of the Hindenburg and the dawn of the Apollo missions. As you can tell, I am very passionate about the ship. If anyone has any questions about her, I'm more than happy to answer them! P.S. Amanda, I'm serious. Come to New Orleans to chat about the ship. Bring Brian V. It'll be a hoot. :-D

_Ms_Mayflower

My function room at work is modelled after the Queen Mary, our founder went on the maiden voyage and loved it so much hired the same artists and craftsman to recreate a slice of it in the middle of York. Would love to see the original x

Chris Perley

Len, the city very much wants to keep her afloat. They consider her to be the city's Eiffel Tower. There are some opponents who believe she is a waste of taxpayer money (isn't there always?) It would cost more to scuttle the ship or move her to a scrapyard than it would cost to repair her. I'll wager she's not going anywhere.

Len Tower Jr.

Good to hear. I was sad when the Spruce Goose moved to OR. Many fewer people get to see it. How many cruise ship berths do the combined harbors of LB & LA have?

DebbieG

I love that you have a connection to this historic ship. 🚢 I love stories like this. I saw the QM during my one visit to Long Beach, she was so majestic. It would be a shame for her to be scuttled or turned into spare parts. I thought she was a hotel at one point? Enjoy your trip back to NZ. Home is where you make it. 💕

Lynn Robinson

What a fascinating family history you have. Looking forward to seeing more photographs of you and Ash in NZ. Enjoy, feel relaxed and at peace x

NakedSunFlower

An amazing story about your family history. Yes, it's still great to know the history of your family in order to pass it on from one generation to another generation.

Dayle A. Dermatis

It would be a tragedy to lose the QM. I've visited several times, gone on tours, and stayed there as well, and it's marvelous.

Mark Hunter

My great grandfather was a ship builder, actually a ship painter - on the Tyne in Walker, Newcastle. Although he didn’t work on the Queen Mary, he did build a large and detailed scale model of that ship - around 3 ft long, mounted in a glass case. He built models of other ships I’m told, it was a hobby of his, but those have been lost or given away. This one was kept and it’s a family heirloom now. I loved it as a kid. When I see pictures of the real thing, it’s the model that I see - it’s backwards in my head. Would love to see the real thing.Safe travels.

VitAnyaNaked

<p style="color: #008600;">Thank you for this candid and long post. It was exciting to read. Hope you have a great holiday in New Zealand.</p>

Samaire Wynne

Don't shuttle your life, Amanda. We love you ❤

Amanda Eckert

as someone who has spent years living on the sea, i’d like to offer up my favorite maritime quote: “a smooth sea never made a a skilled sailor.” ❤️

Terry Green

I'm very glad you were able to show Ash the Queen Mary. I was probably about his age when my uncle (who was visiting us in LA) insisted we go down to the harbor and take the tour. Left an indelible impression!

Queequeg

thanks for (another) interesting and thoughtful post amanda. i hope a way can be found to retain her for many more years as a tourist attraction and museum. however if (and when) this grand old ship must be lost, it seems to me that the best outcome would be scuttling, but properly done. once all the remaining contaminants are removed (most of the fuel would have removed after decommissioning), and a well-chosen site is found, a sunken ship gradually becomes a haven for a miriad of marine life. a once fuel-oil burning ship - magnificent though she was in her day - would be transformed into the basis of a life-sustaining ecosystem. a nice evolution it seems to me.

Tamara

As a former NASA research historian, I love your connection between the Hindenburg and Moon. Wow.

James Cowie

AFP....Welcome back to a decent time zone and Aeoteroa ... (the land of the long white cloud) ... As an ex pat Scot now living in part of the "New World"(Australia) and having dragged/motorcycled my sorry Scots arse around most of the other parts of it, US, Canada,Southern Africa,India Asia et al. How our not distant relatives got there is never what seems to be written down in immigration papers and history books. Waves of Scots migrated/were exiled/transported to or simply forced to move to the cities in the South to abject poverty then pay their way "across the water". A play by John McGrath "The Cheviot, the Stag and the Black, Black Oil" or social/economic histories have better explanations of Scots leaving Scotland, than the pretty pleasant ones regurgitated for family gatherings (don't scare the kids Jock) As for shipbuilding in Glasgow, Belfast, Newcastle and Southampton, social histories, poetry and songs abound ... Ally Hulett's "Suicide Town" springs to mind about after the H & W yards were closed in Govan and what happened to the people. The story of their opening in 1912 is bizarre. How much do we need monuments ? Be they a French women with a tit out, a Middle Eastern guy nailed to a tree, a house of a particular colour, a boat,a garden a Palace ? How do they replace the stories of how they got there ? Do they not just tell the story of the monument, not it's builder and how/why it was built ?

James Cowie

In Gael, t-Eilean Sgitheanack (Isle of Skye) features in so many Scots/Irish/Gael songs

Nikki Mierjeski

Me and my parents had brunch on the Queen Mary after my graduation from CSULB. It was lovely, I have fond memories. Went back with a college friend (who's a self-proclaimed pirate) several years later and we got too drunk on the ship's bar and screamed on the dock: I'M ON A BOOAATT! I hope the city keeps her, but I also like the general idea of scuttling. I also worked at the Aquarium of the Pacific and never experienced it selling out before? Weird.

Simon Hinchco

Tēnā koe e hoa! I have to admit - I was shocked to see that you had returned to Aotearoa New Zealand. Given everything that happened I presumed it would be a couple of years before we had the privilege of hosting you and your whanau again. I hope the community you built here is still around to support you - and if not, please reach out. I hope you enjoy your time with us again. Much aroha to you and and Ash 💜💜

Nic Duhamel

I'm glad Ash got to know a bit more about his great-great-grandfather, even if it is a shame about the aquarium. I've never been to Aotearoa, but my own great-great-grandmother, Julia, was born there, on a military base in Wanganui. Her dad was a bit of a traveller too - he was Irish, and he joined the army, the army sent him to a tiny island in the English Channel called Jersey where he met his wife, and then the army sent him around the world to Aotearoa where Julia and her sister were born. And then after his discharge he came back to Jersey (where I live now!).

Chris Perley

Thank you! I wanted to find a way to describe the time period that people would understand. The Mary's maiden voyage was in May, 1936. The Hindenburg crashed in May, 1937. The Mary retired in Dec, 1967. Unmanned Apollo flights began in 1961. The crewed missions were 1968. It was the best way to talk about the advances in transportation technology.

Chris Perley

I would love to see your function room! Perhaps I could provide some comparisons between that, and the ship itself. If you're willing to share, qmchiefofficer@google.com